I will cheerfully admit I am a huge fan of Austrian wines. When a winemaking teacher tipped me off to the existence of Gruner Veltliner it opened up a whole world of textural, aromatic white wines that are almost more fun to smell than to drink (almost but not quite!). After years of enjoying Austria's Riesling and Gruner the importer decided to challenge us with reds. Yep, reds from Austria. Made from native grapes that suit the climate. And they are very darn good too. I even heard a whisper of some Austrian sparkling eventually coming into the country at some stage too.
So when the importer asked if I would like to showcase some of the Austrian wines I was dead keen.
Austria can be just as confusing as Germany when it comes to decoding what the labels mean. At least they almost always list the variety used on the label. From experience the best thing you can do is get to know the producer and their style after that it is just a matter of working out which is vineyard name, what is marketing speak and what is quality level. The notes from the night can be view here and as always the best way to learn is by doing, so you can purchase the wines here. Feel free to email to chat about an introduction pack for similar.
Champagne Jacquesson Cuvee 735 At the time of the dinner we had no access to Austrian sparkling wine. Champagne would "have to do". I loved the crisp and refreshing nature of the 735. Very zesty, a hint leesy but perfect for a warm night to lead into the aromatics. Jacquesson make some great Champagne that have flavour and interest as a drink but often get forgotten sadly.
Bracket One. Gruner Veltliner - textural wines with power and complexity. Great transmitter of terroir.
Stift Goettweig Grüner Veltliner Gottweiger Berg DAC 2011 Soft, floral, spice (pepper), musk, savoury and dough. The palate was zesty and clean. This wine shows the mid-weight Gruner style, it was so well balanced I found myself emptying the glass sooner than I meant to.
Prager Grüner Veltliner Hinter Der Burg Federspiel 2011 Using 100% stainless steel the Prager team want the purity of variety and terroir to shine. This was noticeably lighter than the other three in the bracket. I enjoyed the pure, fresh, grapey, floral, Clean and doughy notes. The acid was more noticeable in this wine as were the phenolic structure and there was even a hint of the Gruner bitterness too. This made it a very refreshing drink.
Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Axpoint Smaragd 2011 Riper, peach, melon, zesty fruits, mineral/chalk, hint of funk and grapefruit. Great mouthfeel and balance makes this wine a joy to drink. This wine was a bit of a talking point. A lot of people loved the power in the this wine but a few people found it a bit challanging. It really showed the progression from light through to full Gruner.
Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg 2000 Being able to try an older bottle really puts the wines into context. It is said that old Gruner takes on similar characters to aged White Burgundy. There was plenty of toasty, honey, zesty and tuna characters. The wine still had the purity of floral and grape/grapefruit perfume and the texture was amazing. Just a great example of how well the wines age.
Bracket 2. Riesling - dry wines with drive and purirty.
Domaine Wachau Riesling Terrassen Federspiel 2011 This is "just" the entry level. Wow! Sweet fruits, waxy, grapey, green apple. Very crisp, long and satisfying. The wine was just everything that great Riesling should be. Such an enjoyable drink.
FX Pichler Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd 2011 I must confess a love of Pichler wines. This wine did not disappoint. Pure, spicey, grape and powerful. There was hints of exotic fruits as there was probably a touch of botrytis in here but that only made the wine more complex. Lots of mid palate stuffing in this wine. A hint of saline but just dripping with ripe stone fruits. This is a keeper for sure.
Emmerich Knoll Riesling Vinothekfuellung Smaragd 2011 A mouthful to say and to drink. A blend made for wine bars (Vinothek) in a slightly fuller and more forward style. Lots of spice, red apple and a mixture of overt fruits best summed up as "like a hippy commune". The palate was full and satisfyingly harmonious. Great for drinking now. Will probably improve with time but I'd never find out.
Bründlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra 2001 A great producer and vineyard from a hotter year and this wine certainly provoked discussion. I loved the silky mouthfeel and fresh toast and cured limes. It was however at the end of its life and definitely needs to be drunk. Some people loved it, some thought it was too old. I think I'd like to restaste to be sure ;)
Bracket 3. Native reds - What are they like? Closest I can come is a divine blend of Nebbiolo, Syrah, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir. You just need to try them.
Pittnauer St. Laurent Dorflagen Villages 2011 St Laurent is thought to have descended from Pinot Noir a long time ago. This is an entry point to the variety and was full of smokey, blood oranges, dirt, mineral and meaty. The palate was tart, with red fruits, soft and tasted of the earth. Fine tannins and a hint silky. I think this variety suits the foods we eat in Australia.
Pittnauer St. Laurent Altenberg 2007 The next step up, a single vineyard example. Darker, fuller and with more pronounced mineral and earth. The palate showed lots of cherry cola and had such a great feel and balance. A very impressive wine that would hold its own next to a lot of more famous Old world wines.
Moric Blaufrankisch Burgenland 2011 Blaufrankisch offers a step up in weight and intensity compared to St Laurent. This village level wine was full of sweet fruits, plums, hint of prune and currants. Although very primary there is a lot of depth and glimpses of savoury notes. The palate is full but not heavy and there is a nice perfume that carries through the wine.
Moric Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben 2007 Single vineyard from high altitudes. This was a serious wine. Rhone like earthy/limestone and dried meats, red and blue fruits and a fair weight on the mouth backed up with great tannins. I'd love to see this wine with more time in the bottle as it was quite compact at the tasting.
Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Beerenauslese 2007 500ml To finish we had the pleasure of this sweet wine. Luscious, balanced and seamless. There was a plethora of tropical fruits and floral characters. The perfect way to draw a close to a lovely evening that showed off how good Austrian wines are.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on Austrian wines or if you are curious to know more please get in touch.
Showing posts with label wine notes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine notes. Show all posts
Wednesday, 27 March 2013
Monday, 3 December 2012
Spanish Master Class @ Mezzo
Spanish
Masterclass
Next Stop World Domination?
Check out the Order form here
According to figures from the OIV (International Organization of Wine and Vine), in 2011 Spain had 1,032,000 hectare of vineyards planted. 225,000 hectare more than second most prolific France. 97.4% was used for wine making. In 2011 they produced 34,300,000 hectolitres of wine compared to France 49,633,000 and Italy 41,580,000. Australia had 174,000ha making 11,010,000hl of wine.
The
best regions have laws similar to France’s AOC or Italy’s DOC laws under the
banner of Protected Denomination of Origin (PDO).
Denomination
of Origin (DO) – For ‘prestigious Spanish wines’ with five years of recognised
quality production. The Consejo Regulador
governs the parametres of production.
Qualified Denomination of Origin. (DOCa) – Regions that have 10 years of DO quality wines. The wines must be bottled in wineries within the region where they are produced and follow the laws of the regulating body.
Estate Wine (Vino de Pago) – Recognising distinctive sites. They must comply with DOCa requirements while being vinified and bottled at the vineyard.
Qualified Estate Wine (Vino de Pago Calificado) – If the Vino de Pago is wholly within a DOCa and fulfils the Vino de Pago laws it can be granted this classification.
Important Varieties For Quality
Tempranillo – Top quality grape grown all over the Peninsula (with
many pseudonyms). Can be used for Rosado or Joven all the way up to Gran
Reserva. Ages well – said to compare to Burgundy. Cherry, cola typical
descriptors. Garnacha – AKA Grenache. Most famous in Priorat and Montsant. Blends well with Tempranillo.
Mencia – Similar to Cabernet Franc makes stunning wines from Bierzo, Valdeorras and surrounding regions.
Albarino – Native of Galicia and the main grape of Rias Baixas. Great perfume and texture.
Palomino – The main variety of Sherry production. Used for Fino/Manzanilla, Amontillado and Oloroso production.
Sparkling Varieties – Macabeo, Xarel.lo and Parellada combine to make the stunning Methode Traditionelle wines of Cava with some Chardonnay on occasion. Generally all three are quite ordinary for table wine production.
Important Regions For Quality
Rioja – A large and varied region and Spain’s quality
flagship. Alta and Alavesa are the high altitude cooler parts and Baja the low
hot lands. Producer is the most important determiner of quality. The Spanish
equivalent of the Barossa.Ribera del Duero – Rivalling Rioja for quality. This valley that follows the Duero (Duoro in Portugal) is high altitude with sandy soils. The best are extremely elegant wines. Tempranillo dominates production.
Jerez – The southern town that is responsible for Sherry. Need I say more?
Priorat – Robust wines made of Garnacha and Cariñena (aka Carignan) grown on schisty slopes perched high in the mountains near Barcelona.
Biezro – Continental climate and high altitude vineyards combined with schist laden soils means these wines are elegant, fine and perfumed. Easily some of the best wines in Spain.
Rias Baixas – Translates to ‘low rivers’, the best producers in this white only DO make perfumed, elegant and textured wines that really sing with seafood.
Give it a rest The aging categories in Spain can be confusing but they are summarised below as:
Joven Generally unoaked and released early for immediate consumption.
Vino de crianza (crianza wine) Reds minimum of 24 months, of which 6 months are spent in oak. White and rosé wines aged for at least 18 months.
Reserva Red wines that are aged for a minimum of 36 months. At least 12 months in oak and the rest in the bottle. White and rosé aged for 18 months, to include 6 months on wood.
Gran Reserva Red wines aged for a minimum of 60 months, to include at least 18 months in oak. White and rosé wines aged for 48 months, to include 6 months on wood.
Joven Generally unoaked and released early for immediate consumption.
Vino de crianza (crianza wine) Reds minimum of 24 months, of which 6 months are spent in oak. White and rosé wines aged for at least 18 months.
Reserva Red wines that are aged for a minimum of 36 months. At least 12 months in oak and the rest in the bottle. White and rosé aged for 18 months, to include 6 months on wood.
Gran Reserva Red wines aged for a minimum of 60 months, to include at least 18 months in oak. White and rosé wines aged for 48 months, to include 6 months on wood.
Quality sparkling wines may use the “Premium” and “Reserva” indications; the “Gran Reserva” indication may be used by those sparkling wines that have been given the Cava designation and which have undergone ageing for at least 30 months from tirage to disgorging.
The Wines
Albarino is Spain's best white grape. This wine has great balance, its very textural and floral with candied citrus and hints of savoury, doughy notes. Very long. Rias Baixas is a white only region on the West coast of Spain. These wines are made for seafood and this would be awesome with scallops.
2010 Telmo Rodriguez ‘El Transistor’ Verdejo D.O Rueda
Also known as Verdehlo this grape is a bit of a work horse making lots of easy going wine for immediate consumption. This wine is the next level up. Crystaline, pure and clean, hints of oak complement the dense white and yellow fruits. There is plenty of fat on the mid-palate and a floral almost aloe vera like finish.
2008 Dominio Do Bibei Lacima D.O Ribeira Sacra
100% Mencia - a variety close to my heart. Mencia is thought to be related to Cabernet Franc if not genetically definitely flavour wise. Crushed raspberries, dried and fresh herbs, floral clean and tight. There is a stony core to this wine and a spine of acid and tannin that make it compelling drinking. Try having just one glass!
2005 Alion D.O Ribera del Duero
100% Tempranillo from the famous Vega Sicilia stable of wines. Easily the wine of the night as the extra age has given a beautiful depth. Meaty, red, blue and black fruits, fresh, spicy, silky and ever evolving in the glass. A great experience and captures the essence of Tempranillo. A must try for wine lovers.
28 Navazos La Bota de Oloroso Bota Punta D.O Jerez de la Frontera (375ml)
Walnut, spice, pepper, incredibly floral, hazelnuts, the palate is clean with wonderful mouthfilling hints of dried fruits. Such an amazing experince to drink pure concentrated Oloroso.
Classic easy goingh Verdejo that can be served cold to be refreshing or served at cellar temperature to appreciate the subtle flavours and textures.
2010 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Pétalos’ Mencia D.O. Bierzo
A stunning producer who makes Mencia that rivals the best wines of Burgundy. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough. So fresh and vibrant with the mineral core.
2011 Agnès de Cervera ‘La Petite Agnès’ Garnacha Samsó D.O Priorat (DOCa)
Amazingly good wine showing the typical Priorat dark fruit power, schisty drive and overall muscle.
2011 Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ D.O Rioja (DOCa)
The unoaked younger brother of the Propiedad, it is unoaked and made to be drunk young and fresh. There is less fruit power but the extra vibrancy and tart fruit makes up for that easily.
2011 Cillar di Silos Joven de Silos D.O Ribera del Duero
Very classy Tempranillo from a fabulous producer. Full of crunchy red fruits and floral notes. A very refreshing wine that shows the Tempranillos other personality (compared to the Alion above).
Romate Oloroso ‘Don Jose’ D.O. Jeréz
A true gem of a drink. Oloroso is often overlooked as people either head for the bone dry or the sweet styles. This wine shows the joy of texture and subtle flavours you get with Oloroso. Such a great and versitile food wine too.
The Wines
2006 Juvé y Camps ‘Reserva de la Familia’ Brut Nature Gran
Reserva
33% Macabeo, 33% Xarel.lo, 34% Parellada. Dense, leesy, zesty, floral, clean and very long. The best Cava (and this is one of them) is made in the Champagne method but tend to be a lot lighter and crisper due to the native varieties used. Very nice drinking for starting a meal.
2010 Valmiñor Albariño
D.O. Rías Baixas33% Macabeo, 33% Xarel.lo, 34% Parellada. Dense, leesy, zesty, floral, clean and very long. The best Cava (and this is one of them) is made in the Champagne method but tend to be a lot lighter and crisper due to the native varieties used. Very nice drinking for starting a meal.
2010 Telmo Rodriguez ‘El Transistor’ Verdejo D.O Rueda
Also known as Verdehlo this grape is a bit of a work horse making lots of easy going wine for immediate consumption. This wine is the next level up. Crystaline, pure and clean, hints of oak complement the dense white and yellow fruits. There is plenty of fat on the mid-palate and a floral almost aloe vera like finish.
2008 Dominio Do Bibei Lacima D.O Ribeira Sacra
100% Mencia - a variety close to my heart. Mencia is thought to be related to Cabernet Franc if not genetically definitely flavour wise. Crushed raspberries, dried and fresh herbs, floral clean and tight. There is a stony core to this wine and a spine of acid and tannin that make it compelling drinking. Try having just one glass!
2008 Alvaro Palacios ‘Finca Dofi’D.O Priorat (DOCa) Grenache dominant blend from one of Spain's best regions. The Palacios family is almost royalty in Spain This wine was dark fruited, smokey/schisty. tea leaf and chocolatey. There is plenty of presence and power in the mouth. As is typical of the region this wine really needs a few more years to soften out and develop some secondary characters. Impressive drinking none-the-less.
2008 Remondo ‘Propiedad’ D.O Rioja (DOCa) Grenache dominant with Tempranillo making up the balance from Rioja Baja. Dry, savoury, pure, dark fruits, with a hint of prunes. The palate on this wine is all silk and seduction. Really shows the potential of the Rioja low lands. 2005 Alion D.O Ribera del Duero
100% Tempranillo from the famous Vega Sicilia stable of wines. Easily the wine of the night as the extra age has given a beautiful depth. Meaty, red, blue and black fruits, fresh, spicy, silky and ever evolving in the glass. A great experience and captures the essence of Tempranillo. A must try for wine lovers.
28 Navazos La Bota de Oloroso Bota Punta D.O Jerez de la Frontera (375ml)
Walnut, spice, pepper, incredibly floral, hazelnuts, the palate is clean with wonderful mouthfilling hints of dried fruits. Such an amazing experince to drink pure concentrated Oloroso.
The Entry level Wines
NV Segura Viudas Aria Brut
Charming, light, fresh, citrusy Cava that is all too easy to drink. Great drinking no matter what the occasion is.
NV Segura Viudas Aria Brut
Charming, light, fresh, citrusy Cava that is all too easy to drink. Great drinking no matter what the occasion is.
2011 Viña Olabarri Viura Blanco D.O. La Rioja AltaMainly made from Viura it is a light fresh, apple and pear with a hint of floral. The palate has some good texture and waxy notes. Very pleasant to sip.
2011 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Basa’ Verdejo D.O RuedaClassic easy goingh Verdejo that can be served cold to be refreshing or served at cellar temperature to appreciate the subtle flavours and textures.
2010 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Pétalos’ Mencia D.O. Bierzo
A stunning producer who makes Mencia that rivals the best wines of Burgundy. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough. So fresh and vibrant with the mineral core.
2011 Agnès de Cervera ‘La Petite Agnès’ Garnacha Samsó D.O Priorat (DOCa)
Amazingly good wine showing the typical Priorat dark fruit power, schisty drive and overall muscle.
2011 Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ D.O Rioja (DOCa)
The unoaked younger brother of the Propiedad, it is unoaked and made to be drunk young and fresh. There is less fruit power but the extra vibrancy and tart fruit makes up for that easily.
2011 Cillar di Silos Joven de Silos D.O Ribera del Duero
Very classy Tempranillo from a fabulous producer. Full of crunchy red fruits and floral notes. A very refreshing wine that shows the Tempranillos other personality (compared to the Alion above).
Romate Oloroso ‘Don Jose’ D.O. Jeréz
A true gem of a drink. Oloroso is often overlooked as people either head for the bone dry or the sweet styles. This wine shows the joy of texture and subtle flavours you get with Oloroso. Such a great and versitile food wine too.
Thursday, 11 October 2012
Dinner of the Century Burgundy 2009 at The Point 09/10/12
One of the greatest parts of running your own business (apart from setting your own hours) is you can follow what you love and what interests you. So when wine importer Euan McKay suggested we do a dinner showcasing Burgundy 2009 I said yes before he had finished his sentence. For me the only thing better than drinking Burgundy from a great vintage is drinking old Burgundy from a great vintage.
So the DINNER OF THE CENTURY was born (you have to imagine Pete Smith saying it!). The Point at Albert Park was selected as the venue and from the moment they sent through a sample menu I was salivating.
You can read my basic overview on the appellations, producers and vintage and see the pricing once you are thoroughly tempted.
Champagne J. Lassalle Brut Preference N.V. A stunning Champagne made from five vintages and a blend of one third of each of the three varieties (Chard and Pinots Noir and Meunier). Brilliantly floral, nice crispness and excellent length and great body. I think I am smitten! Certainly this is one of the best Champagnes I have tasted in a long time.
Tete de cochon, pickled chanterelles and black pudding 2008 Pierre Morey Meursault ‘Les Tessons’ These two wines were quite different in outlook. The 08 showed a lot more funky, dirt and earthy notes over the floral, peach, creamy and hint lactic notes. The palate was all silk, purity, clean and clear white Burgundy. Just so lovely. Especially when the food arrived.
2009 Pierre Morey Meursault ‘Les Tessons’ By contrast the 2009 was more pure, clean and restrained with a fuller, richer and riper edge as you would expect from the vintage differences. There was a lot of charm in the powerful and full palate which made it great drinking on its own.
Both Tessons did share an elegance and finesse with so fine boned phenolic and acidic grip. They were a very impressive start.
Murray cod, creamed leeks, parsnip and Avruga 2008 Michelot Meursault Premier Cru ‘Genevrieres’ The step up to premier cru was evident here. There is an extra level of denseness and concentration. Again the 08 showed a hint of funk to balance the pristine stone fruits. Great purity, clean with nice mid-palate fat. Such an enjoyable wine.
2009 Michelot Meursault Premier Cru ‘Genevrieres’ This wine showed a line of stony/minerality, with red apples and a hint of doughy/lees. Powerful and pure this wine was just a baby and really needs to hide in the cellar for a while yet.
This pair certainly showed more typical Meursault power and muscle while being finely balanced and very drinkable (as shown by numerous empty glasses before the plates were cleared!).
Yarra Valley duck, roasted breast and confit leg, leek and truffle pithivier, Griottine cherries 2009 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-Champ-Chevrey Premier Cru ‘Monopole’ If I could only drink one wine for the rest of my life this would be it. It has the charm and vibrancy that makes Pinot Noir great with some gritty, earthy tones and succulence on the palate. Great drinking now but it certainly has a lot more to offer if you can stay away.
2009 Violot-Guillemard Pommard Premier Cru ‘La Platiere’ This wine was very raw and youthful. Sour cherries, pepper and mineral. The palate had nice flesh and silk, hints of ironstone and dark chocolate. Powerful Pommard at its very best. Leave for at least seven years for best effect. Might I comment that the duck dish was a stand out of an exceptionally great menu. The wines played a happy foil to it with the different textures of duck marrying with the different expressions of Pinot.
Cheese – Epoisses, Cote-d’Or France, Jean Perrin Le Secret de Scey, Franche-Comté France 2009 Christian Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru ‘Les Corbeaux’ Wow! Dense, rich, dark and with a fair hint of oak. There was plenty of red fruits and mid palate silk with this wine that is a tightly wound coil at the moment. This needs time to relax and unwind to show its very best, but let me say again 'wow!'
2009 Hubert Lignier Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru ‘Les Chaffots’ Smoke, earth and minerals, red blue and black fruits, silk and flesh, firm tannins and lots of muscle! A wine with something to prove. I think this wine will always be slightly tannic but with the right dish that will be swept away and the complexity and perfume will really shine. Also, not being shown next to the Serafin could help the cause haha!
I'm a sucker for Epoisses, I think of all the dishes the cheese didn't marry as well with the wines but separately the food and wine of this course were awesome.
The final verdict? Who wants to do it again next week? Seriously though, impressive wines through out. 2009 is a vintage you will regret not buying more no matter how much you have. And if you haven't eaten at The Point you should add it to your to do list!
So the DINNER OF THE CENTURY was born (you have to imagine Pete Smith saying it!). The Point at Albert Park was selected as the venue and from the moment they sent through a sample menu I was salivating.
 |
| As you can see it is a rather visually appealing venue too! |
Tete de cochon, pickled chanterelles and black pudding 2008 Pierre Morey Meursault ‘Les Tessons’ These two wines were quite different in outlook. The 08 showed a lot more funky, dirt and earthy notes over the floral, peach, creamy and hint lactic notes. The palate was all silk, purity, clean and clear white Burgundy. Just so lovely. Especially when the food arrived.
2009 Pierre Morey Meursault ‘Les Tessons’ By contrast the 2009 was more pure, clean and restrained with a fuller, richer and riper edge as you would expect from the vintage differences. There was a lot of charm in the powerful and full palate which made it great drinking on its own.
Both Tessons did share an elegance and finesse with so fine boned phenolic and acidic grip. They were a very impressive start.
 |
| The kind of wines you'd like to meet in a dark alley. Or a restaurant. |
2009 Michelot Meursault Premier Cru ‘Genevrieres’ This wine showed a line of stony/minerality, with red apples and a hint of doughy/lees. Powerful and pure this wine was just a baby and really needs to hide in the cellar for a while yet.
This pair certainly showed more typical Meursault power and muscle while being finely balanced and very drinkable (as shown by numerous empty glasses before the plates were cleared!).
Yarra Valley duck, roasted breast and confit leg, leek and truffle pithivier, Griottine cherries 2009 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-Champ-Chevrey Premier Cru ‘Monopole’ If I could only drink one wine for the rest of my life this would be it. It has the charm and vibrancy that makes Pinot Noir great with some gritty, earthy tones and succulence on the palate. Great drinking now but it certainly has a lot more to offer if you can stay away.
2009 Violot-Guillemard Pommard Premier Cru ‘La Platiere’ This wine was very raw and youthful. Sour cherries, pepper and mineral. The palate had nice flesh and silk, hints of ironstone and dark chocolate. Powerful Pommard at its very best. Leave for at least seven years for best effect. Might I comment that the duck dish was a stand out of an exceptionally great menu. The wines played a happy foil to it with the different textures of duck marrying with the different expressions of Pinot.
 |
| An impressive line up. Same line up in ten years time? I'll make a time capsule! |
2009 Hubert Lignier Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru ‘Les Chaffots’ Smoke, earth and minerals, red blue and black fruits, silk and flesh, firm tannins and lots of muscle! A wine with something to prove. I think this wine will always be slightly tannic but with the right dish that will be swept away and the complexity and perfume will really shine. Also, not being shown next to the Serafin could help the cause haha!
I'm a sucker for Epoisses, I think of all the dishes the cheese didn't marry as well with the wines but separately the food and wine of this course were awesome.
The final verdict? Who wants to do it again next week? Seriously though, impressive wines through out. 2009 is a vintage you will regret not buying more no matter how much you have. And if you haven't eaten at The Point you should add it to your to do list!
Sunday, 30 September 2012
Wine of the Week
Wine of the Week
Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina DOC 2010
Having tasted quite a few of the San Gregorio wines recently I've been heartily impressed with them all. Their Aglianico red wines and sparkling wine are well worth buying but this wine from the variety Falanghina takes the trophy of most enjoyable.
Nevermind the long and confusing name. This is one of the most lovely white wines I've tasted in a long time. Textural, vibrant, floral and layered. This wine would be at home at a picnic or paired with the finest fish/white meat dish you could muster!
If you've never taste Falanghina before do yourself a favour!
$47ea
Sunday, 23 September 2012
Wine of the Week
Wine of the Week
Du Cedre 'Heritage' Cahors 2009
It was a pretty hard job trying to pick my favourite wine of the week, but this lovely wine won out for its charm and drinkability at the South West France tasting this week. That and the weather has gone cold again!
Du Cedre 'Heritage' Cahors 2009
It was a pretty hard job trying to pick my favourite wine of the week, but this lovely wine won out for its charm and drinkability at the South West France tasting this week. That and the weather has gone cold again!
Made from mostly Malbec and therefore sporting a fair structure, this wine showed dark fruits, while being light, fresh and a hint herbal. Some grippy fruit tannins were evident with some spice and cardomom notes. A great entry level to the reds of the region for drinking now.
$28ea and worth a lot more!!!!
$28ea and worth a lot more!!!!
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Wine of the Week
Wine of the Week
Sigalas Santorini Assrytiko 2009
Not surprisingly that following the Greek dinner and masterclass last night I've found an interesting Greek wine to recommend.
This wine is definitely not a sit down a drink on its own affair. But that is where the beauty of this wine lies. With the right food match it sings and hums in a magical way.
It really smells and tastes of where it is grown; the side of a windswept volcano covered in sand with the only water it receives being blown up from from the sea.
Such a unique drink on the vinous landscape.
$38ea. philip@thewinedepository.c
Sigalas Santorini Assrytiko 2009
 |
| The wine of the moment |
Not surprisingly that following the Greek dinner and masterclass last night I've found an interesting Greek wine to recommend.
This wine is definitely not a sit down a drink on its own affair. But that is where the beauty of this wine lies. With the right food match it sings and hums in a magical way.
It really smells and tastes of where it is grown; the side of a windswept volcano covered in sand with the only water it receives being blown up from from the sea.
 |
| The might Greek wine Empire. |
Such a unique drink on the vinous landscape.
$38ea. philip@thewinedepository.c
Greek Wine Masterclass @ The Press Club 12/09/12
Greek wine has a very poor reputation, mostly because for a long time they have been churning out some pretty ordinary wine! We in Australia are just seeing the good quality producers being brought into Australia. So when importer Pete Johns suggested we show some open minded wine drinkers some great wines from Greece I jumped at the chance.
For the first time in a long time I walked into a wine event knowing almost nothing about the wines we were about to taste. It was a great feeling be free of preconceived notions and be able to learn from start. When you add a trip to the Press Club into the mix it becomes quite an exciting night!
I have attached my brief notes and orderform from the night. You will have to excuse any typos relating to Greek names, I tried my very best.
On arrival we were treated to Tselepos 'Amalia' Brut NV made in the methode traditionelle from native Greek variety Moschofilero. This wine was bright, fresh, grapey and floral with citrus, chalk and a clean and long palate. It was very much like a Prosecco in outlook and could easily be interchanged if you wanted to try something a bit different.
Note: 'Tselepos' is the producers name. 'Amalia' is the name of the a family member of the wine maker and has no meaning beyond that.
Artichoke - Jerusalem, celeriac, parsnip, smoked walnut, toursi onion, kalamata olive paired with Tselepos Mantinia Moschofilero 2011. This was great to compare a still Moschofilero to a sparkling one. This table wine was spicey, floral/handsoap like, lychees and musk. It had a great mid palate weight, with a fresh and clean mouthfeel and just a hint of bitterness. A very sweetly perfumed wine but still quite dry. It is like a devine cross between Gewurztraminer and Muscat.
Note: Andrew from the Press Club is quite knowledgeable on Greek wines and explained that 'Moscho' means grey, which refers to the grey almost pink colour of the ripe grapes (much like Pinot Gris). 'Mantinia' is the region the wine comes from.
Swordfish - "Poiseidon god of the sea", sea weed & vegetables, ouzo mayoneza, nicola. This was a pretty amazing bracket and an equally amazing dish. We had Sigalas Assrytiko Athiri 2009 a blend of 75% Assrytiko with 25% Athiri which showed brine, citrus, stones and a hint of seaweed with a sweet core of tropical fruits and a long, lean, floral and dry palate. Very refreshing and a bit gluggable before the food turned up. Compared with the Sigalas Santorini Assrytiko 2011 100% Assrytiko which had a strong tone of seaweed, brine, minerals, stones, white flowers and green olives. It was focussed, textured with an oystershell note. It was a bit off putting at first because it was so dry but when the swordfish arrived it became so glorious to drink. The change was amazing. Santorini is a volcanic island in the Aegean Islands. The tourists and locals mainly live inside the top of the volcanos crater. The outside is a windswept sandy place that gets little to no rainfall, all the moisture is blown up off the sea. If you can picture that you can imagine that the wine tastes like where it is grown.
Note: 'Santorini' is the region/island. 'Assrytiko' and 'Athiri' are grape varieties.
Interlude Driopi Rose 2011 a stunningly perfumed wine of bright, red, crunchy, marachino cherry, floral and grapey notes. Quite spicy, sweet fruited and clean on the palate. Despite how sweet it smelt it was in fact as dry as a dry rose can be. A great cleanser and perfect for drinking in more informal occasions too. It is made from Agiorgitiko and we got to drink a red table wine example next up.
Note: 'Agiorgitiko' is a variety that has been used to make, red, rose, sweet and sparkling wine in Greece. To pronounce it remember the 'g's are silent.
Veal - Loin, sweetbread, kefalograviera consomme, anchovy, almond, kounipidi A wonderful dish that was easily as good as the swordfish and matched beautifully with the Driopo Nemea Agiorgitiko 2009. In contrast to the rose this was dense, red fruited, smokey, dark chocolatey, soot with a clean, schisty/mineral core. This reminded me of a great Hunter Shiraz with its fruit power but structural balance. Lovely wine, great match with the food.
Note: 'Nemea' is the region on the Peloponnese.
Wagyu - 24 hr oyster blade, horta, heirloom carrots, smoke almonds & oats This was a seriously sticky and flavoursome dish that required something special to wrestle the attention away. As it happened we had Sigalas Mavrotragano 2009 which was a brute! Dense, deeply coloured, dark fruits, dry herbs, olives, hint terracotta, dry earth, smoke and firm tannins (despite being decanted for a few hours). This was a musclar wine that demands food at this stage but so very delicious. Very much like an Aglianico for those that have tried the variety.
Note: 'Mavrotragano' is the variety, 'mavro' means dark/black.
Sokolata - Zeus & his 8 mistresses with Michael Cluizel single origin chocolate Wow! What a dish. So chocolately, nine tastes in all. It certainly makes quite an impact and a great way to finish off. The wine match was Sigalas Vinsanto 2004. Until recently I thought Vinsanto was a traditional Italian drink, as it turns out it is something they adopted from the Greeks. It involves a very long process of sun drying and barrel aging grapes to make a sweet wine of power and finesse. There was plenty of stuffing, with floral notes, raisins, white choclate and a silky and charming mouthfeel.
Note: Vinsanto could easily translate to hedonism!
This was such a fun evening and Pete Johns did such a great job explaining what makes the best wines of Greek so special.
For the first time in a long time I walked into a wine event knowing almost nothing about the wines we were about to taste. It was a great feeling be free of preconceived notions and be able to learn from start. When you add a trip to the Press Club into the mix it becomes quite an exciting night!
I have attached my brief notes and orderform from the night. You will have to excuse any typos relating to Greek names, I tried my very best.
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| The major regions of Greece. |
Note: 'Tselepos' is the producers name. 'Amalia' is the name of the a family member of the wine maker and has no meaning beyond that.
Artichoke - Jerusalem, celeriac, parsnip, smoked walnut, toursi onion, kalamata olive paired with Tselepos Mantinia Moschofilero 2011. This was great to compare a still Moschofilero to a sparkling one. This table wine was spicey, floral/handsoap like, lychees and musk. It had a great mid palate weight, with a fresh and clean mouthfeel and just a hint of bitterness. A very sweetly perfumed wine but still quite dry. It is like a devine cross between Gewurztraminer and Muscat.
Note: Andrew from the Press Club is quite knowledgeable on Greek wines and explained that 'Moscho' means grey, which refers to the grey almost pink colour of the ripe grapes (much like Pinot Gris). 'Mantinia' is the region the wine comes from.
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| The Press Club |
Note: 'Santorini' is the region/island. 'Assrytiko' and 'Athiri' are grape varieties.
Interlude Driopi Rose 2011 a stunningly perfumed wine of bright, red, crunchy, marachino cherry, floral and grapey notes. Quite spicy, sweet fruited and clean on the palate. Despite how sweet it smelt it was in fact as dry as a dry rose can be. A great cleanser and perfect for drinking in more informal occasions too. It is made from Agiorgitiko and we got to drink a red table wine example next up.
Note: 'Agiorgitiko' is a variety that has been used to make, red, rose, sweet and sparkling wine in Greece. To pronounce it remember the 'g's are silent.
Veal - Loin, sweetbread, kefalograviera consomme, anchovy, almond, kounipidi A wonderful dish that was easily as good as the swordfish and matched beautifully with the Driopo Nemea Agiorgitiko 2009. In contrast to the rose this was dense, red fruited, smokey, dark chocolatey, soot with a clean, schisty/mineral core. This reminded me of a great Hunter Shiraz with its fruit power but structural balance. Lovely wine, great match with the food.
Note: 'Nemea' is the region on the Peloponnese.
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| The menu - stunning! |
Note: 'Mavrotragano' is the variety, 'mavro' means dark/black.
Sokolata - Zeus & his 8 mistresses with Michael Cluizel single origin chocolate Wow! What a dish. So chocolately, nine tastes in all. It certainly makes quite an impact and a great way to finish off. The wine match was Sigalas Vinsanto 2004. Until recently I thought Vinsanto was a traditional Italian drink, as it turns out it is something they adopted from the Greeks. It involves a very long process of sun drying and barrel aging grapes to make a sweet wine of power and finesse. There was plenty of stuffing, with floral notes, raisins, white choclate and a silky and charming mouthfeel.
Note: Vinsanto could easily translate to hedonism!
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| Zeus and the ladies. They got on surprisingly well. |
Monday, 3 September 2012
Wine of the Week
Wine of the Week
Paradigm Hill Riesling 2011
Paradigm Hill is an impressive vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula. Probably most famous for their Pinot Noir I have always had a soft spot for their Riesling. We visited Paradigm Hill on Sunday when Main Ridge Estates cellar door was closed (so sad). It is a great experience and they have a beautiful 'puppy' (she more the size of a small lion!) Jemima.
The Riesling has nice crunchy, zesty acidity, floral notes and a grapey, melon like edge. Great texture too. Brilliant Spring drinking this year or even better in five Springs from now.
$35ea - cheaper by the dozen. Email orders or questions to philip@thewinedepository.com.au
Paradigm Hill Riesling 2011
Paradigm Hill is an impressive vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula. Probably most famous for their Pinot Noir I have always had a soft spot for their Riesling. We visited Paradigm Hill on Sunday when Main Ridge Estates cellar door was closed (so sad). It is a great experience and they have a beautiful 'puppy' (she more the size of a small lion!) Jemima.
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| Too drinkable. Should be in 1 litre bottles. |
$35ea - cheaper by the dozen. Email orders or questions to philip@thewinedepository.com.au
Bordeaux 2009 @ Mezzo 03/09/12
WOW! Not since the 2005 vintage Bordeaux (of which I did three separate tasting in the space of a week) have I felt the need to write 'wow' in capital letters. I was a bit nervous to see if the wines lived up the the massive hype for a couple of reasons. First and foremost after the last three Bordeaux vintage dinners 2006, 07 & 08 we needed some joy. And secondly I had bought quite a bit En-Primeur.
Thankfully the wines were stunning. Once again Patrick had the unenviable task of picking the wines but the representative sample was great for an overview and there was not a dud amongst them.
Lanson 2002 Vintage Champagne The third time we have started with this wine. It is still charming although it has only been a couple of months it seems to have softened and broadened a little making it all the more drinkable.
Cantemerle Haut Medoc 5th Growth 2009 Smoke, spice, graphite, red currants, hint dried green herbs, pepper.
Firm but elegant oak tannins, hints of gravel, lean and very very long, floral and red fruited core. Hint bitter.
Stunning wine for the money and could easily have been mistaken for being of much higher quality than its lowly 5th Growth ranking.
D'Issan Margaux 3rd Growth 2009 Plums, choco, terracotta, violets, red, spicy.
Dirty, meaty, earthy, core of dark fruits, black currants and dark choco.
This was a beautifully elegant wine that was infact my favourite for its perfume and simplicity.
Phelan Segur St Estephe Cru Bourgeois 2009 Fragrant, blue/purple fruits, primary, meaty, hint hand soap.
Silky, good flesh, fine tannins, very lean, tight core, hint hollow? Builds intensity on finish. Black currants, hint chalky, high acid.
This and the Cantemerle were the cheapest on the table but both punch well above their weight.
Batailley Pauillac 5th Growth 2009 Herbal, spice, hint of green mint/peppermint, oak becomes prominent. Pepper, spiced meats, cinnamon.
Plums, oaky, choco, flesh, spice, dry tannins, hint bitter. Great harmony.
This was voted equal wine of the night along with Leoville Barton. It is a young and exuberant wine that has a long time to go before it fully matures.
Leoville Barton St Julien 2nd Growth 2009 Dense, cool, plums, fragrant, spearmint, violets & roses, spice, very perfumed, bubblegum.
Vibrant, crunchy, blue/purple, structured, sweet fruited, hint short? Primary and raw.
This was the second most expensive wine on the table and it was impressive but extremely young. For three times the price of Phelan or Cantemerle you'd certainly grab three bottles of the others if you were going to drink the wine now. In 15-30 years time it may be another story. However, Options wine number one might just turn that thought on its head.
Clos Fourtet St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe 2009 Dark, smoke, graphite, oak, cardomom, complex, hint of jam at core.
Silky, weighty, dark, choco, firm, clean, tart red fruits, red liquorice, hint bitter, briary.
The most expensive wine on the table and the only Right Bank wine. I think it suffered for that in part as most didn't enjoy it where I found it quite lovely but perhaps too expensive. We also had a discussion about the fact Robert Parker gave this wine 100 points out of a possible 100. Was this wine perfect? Was it better than the Leoville or Batailley? Over time will it become perfect?
Options Wine # 1
Cantemerle Haut Medoc 5th Growth 1995 Kevin brought this along to complement the 2009 we were having and it was stunning.
Dry, green leaf, tobacco, spearmint, dry leaves, earth, prune, plums, spice.
Sweet fruits, clean, cool, elegant.
Unfortunately noone picked it as being the Cantemerle but this wine was stunning. Exactly why you buy and store Bordeaux. If you could bottle this and sell it you would....
Options Wine # 2
Pichon Lalande Pauillac 2nd Growth 1979 Patrick's favourite Bordeaux producer and a wine he holds close to his heart.
Green olives, tea leaf, earth, stone, currants.
Dry, lean, clean, sweet core, red fruits, red currants.
Can be summed up as "Pretty, floral, red and vibrant". There was a mustiness to it but more an age rather than cork issue. It was stunning old Bordeaux that still had a fair whack of tannic power.
Thankfully the wines were stunning. Once again Patrick had the unenviable task of picking the wines but the representative sample was great for an overview and there was not a dud amongst them.
Lanson 2002 Vintage Champagne The third time we have started with this wine. It is still charming although it has only been a couple of months it seems to have softened and broadened a little making it all the more drinkable.
Cantemerle Haut Medoc 5th Growth 2009 Smoke, spice, graphite, red currants, hint dried green herbs, pepper.
Firm but elegant oak tannins, hints of gravel, lean and very very long, floral and red fruited core. Hint bitter.
Stunning wine for the money and could easily have been mistaken for being of much higher quality than its lowly 5th Growth ranking.
D'Issan Margaux 3rd Growth 2009 Plums, choco, terracotta, violets, red, spicy.
Dirty, meaty, earthy, core of dark fruits, black currants and dark choco.
This was a beautifully elegant wine that was infact my favourite for its perfume and simplicity.
Phelan Segur St Estephe Cru Bourgeois 2009 Fragrant, blue/purple fruits, primary, meaty, hint hand soap.
Silky, good flesh, fine tannins, very lean, tight core, hint hollow? Builds intensity on finish. Black currants, hint chalky, high acid.
This and the Cantemerle were the cheapest on the table but both punch well above their weight.
Batailley Pauillac 5th Growth 2009 Herbal, spice, hint of green mint/peppermint, oak becomes prominent. Pepper, spiced meats, cinnamon.
Plums, oaky, choco, flesh, spice, dry tannins, hint bitter. Great harmony.
This was voted equal wine of the night along with Leoville Barton. It is a young and exuberant wine that has a long time to go before it fully matures.
Leoville Barton St Julien 2nd Growth 2009 Dense, cool, plums, fragrant, spearmint, violets & roses, spice, very perfumed, bubblegum.
Vibrant, crunchy, blue/purple, structured, sweet fruited, hint short? Primary and raw.
This was the second most expensive wine on the table and it was impressive but extremely young. For three times the price of Phelan or Cantemerle you'd certainly grab three bottles of the others if you were going to drink the wine now. In 15-30 years time it may be another story. However, Options wine number one might just turn that thought on its head.
Clos Fourtet St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe 2009 Dark, smoke, graphite, oak, cardomom, complex, hint of jam at core.
Silky, weighty, dark, choco, firm, clean, tart red fruits, red liquorice, hint bitter, briary.
The most expensive wine on the table and the only Right Bank wine. I think it suffered for that in part as most didn't enjoy it where I found it quite lovely but perhaps too expensive. We also had a discussion about the fact Robert Parker gave this wine 100 points out of a possible 100. Was this wine perfect? Was it better than the Leoville or Batailley? Over time will it become perfect?
Options Wine # 1
Cantemerle Haut Medoc 5th Growth 1995 Kevin brought this along to complement the 2009 we were having and it was stunning.
Dry, green leaf, tobacco, spearmint, dry leaves, earth, prune, plums, spice.
Sweet fruits, clean, cool, elegant.
Unfortunately noone picked it as being the Cantemerle but this wine was stunning. Exactly why you buy and store Bordeaux. If you could bottle this and sell it you would....
Options Wine # 2
Pichon Lalande Pauillac 2nd Growth 1979 Patrick's favourite Bordeaux producer and a wine he holds close to his heart.
Green olives, tea leaf, earth, stone, currants.
Dry, lean, clean, sweet core, red fruits, red currants.
Can be summed up as "Pretty, floral, red and vibrant". There was a mustiness to it but more an age rather than cork issue. It was stunning old Bordeaux that still had a fair whack of tannic power.
Monday, 27 August 2012
WINE OF THE WEEK
Francoise & Denis Clair Cotes de Beaune Village 2009
Following on from our All The Pinots tastings a good friend had their 40th Birthday. So naturally a bottle of Burgundy was the order of the day. The heart of Burgundy is known as the Cote d'Or (Golden Slope) and this wine could be sourced from anywhere in the Southern part known as the Cote de Beaune (Slope of Beaune) with Beaune historically being the major town in that part of the region.
2009 is widely regarded as one of the best vintages ever and with wines like this flying the flag it is hard to argue the point.
This wine embodies the best parts of Pinot Noir, Burgundy and specifically the Cotes de Beaune style. Very perfumed cherry and raspberry, roses and violets, with a stoney, spicy and gamey depth. The palate is silky with hints of lavender. The oak tannins are soft and the acidity brings the whole wine together. There is a nice savoury undertone to the whole wine that makes it great with food. It went well with Mezzo's wild boar ravioli and prawn risotto.
Overall this is a great wine for Burgundy lovers and those trying to get their head around the style of the region. Whatever your knowledge level it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face!
$42ea cheaper for quantity. philip@thewinedepository.com.au
Following on from our All The Pinots tastings a good friend had their 40th Birthday. So naturally a bottle of Burgundy was the order of the day. The heart of Burgundy is known as the Cote d'Or (Golden Slope) and this wine could be sourced from anywhere in the Southern part known as the Cote de Beaune (Slope of Beaune) with Beaune historically being the major town in that part of the region.
2009 is widely regarded as one of the best vintages ever and with wines like this flying the flag it is hard to argue the point.
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| No contention with this Beaune. |
Overall this is a great wine for Burgundy lovers and those trying to get their head around the style of the region. Whatever your knowledge level it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face!
$42ea cheaper for quantity. philip@thewinedepository.com.au
Sunday, 26 August 2012
All The Pinots Tasting @ Mezzo 25/08/12
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| Some of All The Pinots. |
With somewhat Spring like weather, Mezzo's wonderful canapes and a room full of eager Pinot lovers we commenced the tasting. You can see my notes on the Pinot family and order form here.
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| Pinot Blanc from North Eastern Italy. |
First Pinot of the bunch was Chanter's Ridge Sparkling Pinot Noir from Macedon. A beautiful expression of Pinot's cherry, rose petal and red berry fruits. Plenty of depth and nice structure and quite dry. A great fizzy and refreshing way to kick off the tasting. A great wine for starting a meal.
The next Pinot we picked was Cantina Valle Isarco Pinot Bianco DOC 2011. Flying the flag for Pinot Blanc or Weissburgunder as it is labelled. The most shy and reserved of all the wines, it showed floral notes, pears and a hint of spice and mineral. It did have a wonderful mouthfeel and really sang when I could flag down some of Mezzo's canapes. A brilliant wine for matching with shellfish, white meats and creamier pasta and risotto dishes.
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| Trimbach was amazing! |
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| Star of the show? |
The second red was an Australian classic, Best's Pinot Meunier 2011. This wine was from their young vines and was lovely for its simple, red fruits, floral notes and crisp, crunchy palate. I am not an expert on varietal still red wines made from Meunier but this is guaranteed to charm any Pinot lover! Easy drinking on its own or with light meals, could even be served a bit chilled in the warmer months.
Next month there will be no tasting as there is some sort of pagan celebration on the last Saturday of September. However October will see us showing the very best of Sparkling wines from around the world to celebrate Spring. Email me to be kept up-to-date.
Also keep an eye out for Mezzo's Northern Italy Dinner. Silvio and his team will take you on a journey through the food and wines of this beautiful part of the world.With four courses and 10 wines you guaranteed to have a good time. Email Silvio for more information.
Sunday, 12 August 2012
A Decade Of TarraWarra @ The Point
After a recent trip to the cellar door I was quite excited to hear that TarraWarra was hosting a ten year vertical tasting showing off their flagship Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with some of their other releases.
First up was the Marsanne Roussanne Viognier blends. As a rule these blends have never excited me even in the Rhone Valley where this classic blend calls home. The 2010 was excellent, a great vintage that made a floral, peachy, nutty drink with spice and dough notes. The palate was creamy and silky quite clean with a hint of savouriness and a lanolin finish. 2009 was from a hot vintage and looked a bit cooked and bitter but the 2008 from a cooler and more elegant year showed great oystershell, spice and peach. It has a great mouthfeel with candied red fruits a hint of white pepper and good length.
Next table along provided 12 Chardonnays to taste. The entry level Estate from 2010 - youthful, minerally/flinty, nice bit of stonefruit with great mouthfeel and hint of oak and 2008 showing a lot of vibrant, rich fruits and a creamy, vanilla bean palate. The Reserve spanned vintages from 10, 08, 06, 05, 04, 02, 01, 00. It was an amazing exercise. 2010-2004 all showed amazing depth and purity, while really celebrating the vintage variation. Moving to 2002 was the first hint of real development in the wines and 2001 and 2000 looking like good old fashioned Chardonnay with some age. Finally we had MDB Chardonnay which is a selection from the best vineyards made in only the very best years. I tasted the elegant, restrained, zesty and vibrant 2010 and the Flinty/mineral, lean and clean 2006. It was seriously good Chardonnay on this table.
Pinot Noir the third table and I have to say I lost my nerve a bit. That and I was running out of time. I tried two vintages of the Estate the fabulous 2010 - so vibrant but savoury and lovely. The 2008 was deeper and dark with just a hint of bitterness. Quite enjoyable but at the other end of the spectrum. I tasted four vintages of the dark fruited, undergrowthy Estates 10, 08, 06, 04 or which 06 was the most impressive with its extra level of blood orange and meaty/olive notes. And the 2006 MDB Pinot offered the same style but with more red fruits, silky, balance and loveliness.
To wrap up the tasting was the Merlot and Shiraz. Short of time or not I intended on tasting all of these wines as I knew how good they are! Their 2009 got me excited about Australian Merlot and the 2010 takes it to the next level. These are seriously impressive wines. The J-Block Shiraz was brilliant and vibrant with depth and elegance. Great mineral notes and compelling drinking.
All in all a great tasting, surprising that the Chardonnay stood out so tall but my stars were the Merlot and Shiraz.
First up was the Marsanne Roussanne Viognier blends. As a rule these blends have never excited me even in the Rhone Valley where this classic blend calls home. The 2010 was excellent, a great vintage that made a floral, peachy, nutty drink with spice and dough notes. The palate was creamy and silky quite clean with a hint of savouriness and a lanolin finish. 2009 was from a hot vintage and looked a bit cooked and bitter but the 2008 from a cooler and more elegant year showed great oystershell, spice and peach. It has a great mouthfeel with candied red fruits a hint of white pepper and good length.
Next table along provided 12 Chardonnays to taste. The entry level Estate from 2010 - youthful, minerally/flinty, nice bit of stonefruit with great mouthfeel and hint of oak and 2008 showing a lot of vibrant, rich fruits and a creamy, vanilla bean palate. The Reserve spanned vintages from 10, 08, 06, 05, 04, 02, 01, 00. It was an amazing exercise. 2010-2004 all showed amazing depth and purity, while really celebrating the vintage variation. Moving to 2002 was the first hint of real development in the wines and 2001 and 2000 looking like good old fashioned Chardonnay with some age. Finally we had MDB Chardonnay which is a selection from the best vineyards made in only the very best years. I tasted the elegant, restrained, zesty and vibrant 2010 and the Flinty/mineral, lean and clean 2006. It was seriously good Chardonnay on this table.
Pinot Noir the third table and I have to say I lost my nerve a bit. That and I was running out of time. I tried two vintages of the Estate the fabulous 2010 - so vibrant but savoury and lovely. The 2008 was deeper and dark with just a hint of bitterness. Quite enjoyable but at the other end of the spectrum. I tasted four vintages of the dark fruited, undergrowthy Estates 10, 08, 06, 04 or which 06 was the most impressive with its extra level of blood orange and meaty/olive notes. And the 2006 MDB Pinot offered the same style but with more red fruits, silky, balance and loveliness.
To wrap up the tasting was the Merlot and Shiraz. Short of time or not I intended on tasting all of these wines as I knew how good they are! Their 2009 got me excited about Australian Merlot and the 2010 takes it to the next level. These are seriously impressive wines. The J-Block Shiraz was brilliant and vibrant with depth and elegance. Great mineral notes and compelling drinking.
All in all a great tasting, surprising that the Chardonnay stood out so tall but my stars were the Merlot and Shiraz.
Friday, 10 August 2012
Wine of the Week
Bouscasse Madiran 2009
Gotta a whole lotta South West France love! Since the weather is still cold what better for you than a corset of tannins that is like a hug in a wine glass? Dark, minerally, hint of oak - somewhat reminiscent of Hunter Valley Shiraz. Nutty, smokey/flinty, nice acidity, silky and dense. Great wine!
Madiran makes reds from Tannat, Cabs Sauvignon and Franc and local variety Fer Servadou. These are seriously tannic wines, easily outstripping all contenders for this title. Despite the structure these wines remain elegant, complex and balanced. They are admirable additions to your cellar without having to pay Bordeaux Cru pricing!
The main variety of Madiran; Tannat makes darkly coloured wines with monstrous tannins but with underlying depth and complexity. Madiran is obviously Tannat’s happy place judging by the wines. Tannat is a troublesome variety prone to reduction which causes burnt rubber and onion like aromas in the final wine. This was the inspiration for developing the micro oxygenation technique which is now used worldwide in wine production. (And infamously lampooned in Mondovino).
For more information on the South West France you can see my previous blog posts.
$39ea cheaper by the dozen or off TWD's South West offer.
Gotta a whole lotta South West France love! Since the weather is still cold what better for you than a corset of tannins that is like a hug in a wine glass? Dark, minerally, hint of oak - somewhat reminiscent of Hunter Valley Shiraz. Nutty, smokey/flinty, nice acidity, silky and dense. Great wine!
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| A case of label imitating wine! |
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| Stunning South West. |
For more information on the South West France you can see my previous blog posts.
$39ea cheaper by the dozen or off TWD's South West offer.
Thursday, 9 August 2012
South West France Lunch at Maha 30th July 2012
One of the occasional perks of this job is a long lunch. Sometimes you get the added bonus is great company and wines that you find compelling. I definitely hit the jackpot at this event!
I'm a huge fan of the wines of Bordeaux but often find them just above my comfortable spending level for all but special occassions and those I can afford generally still need a year or 5 in the cellar to show their best. This event allowed me to cast my eyes further South and taste some interesting wines from Cahors and Madiran.
Quality is as fragmented as the regions laws and location. But today we had some stunning wines from two producers, local anti-hero Alain Brumont who Andrew Jefford describes the South West's very own Citizen Kane who has built up quite an empire of beautifully run estates including Montus and Bouscasse. We also tasted the much more amiable wines from the Verhaeghe family's du Cedre.
Maha put on a shared feast of delightful food and we were off.
Alain Brumont Gros Manseng & Sauvignon Blanc 2011 A great introduction to the tasting! Fleshy and exotically fruited with a lovely textural palate. Blending the familiar flavours of Sauvignon with the decidedly unknown quantity that is Gros Manseg. Overall a very enjoyable quaffing style white.
Chateau Bouscasse Pacherenc Sec 2008 100% Petit Courbu (first time I have knowingly tasted Courbu big or small!). I loved this wine's ripe and flavoursome outlook. Peaches and apricot kernel. Quite full and silky finish. Quite complex and very enjoyable.
Chateau du Cedre Cahors 'Heritage' 2009 90% Malbec, 10% Merlot. This wine showed dark fruits, while being light, fresh and a hint herbal. Some grippy fruit tannins were evident with some spice and cardomom notes. A great entry level to the reds of the region for drinking now.
Chateau du Cedre Cahors 'Chateau' 2008 More brooding, dark, with hints of red fruits, smoke and mineral and blood oranges. Dry and lovely but packs a fair whack of tannic power. 90% Malbec, Merlot and Tannat 5% each. Drink now or leave for a few years.
Chateau Bouscasse Madiran 2009 Jumping now to Madiran where Tannat rules the roost. 65% Tannat, 25% Cab Sauv, 15% Cab Franc. Dark, minerally, hint of oak - somewhat reminiscent of Hunter Valley Shiraz. Nutty, smokey/flinty, nice acidity, silky and dense. Great wine! I love it now but it will improve with another 5 + years laying down.
Chateau Montus Madiran 2009 Dark, dense, smoke, hint red, hint floral, ash, complex, plummy and prunes. The palate was sweetly fruited, hint of aniseed, dense and silky with nice balance and savoury elements. 80% Tannat 20% Cab Sauv.
Chateau Montus Madiran 'La Tyre' 2009 Only made in the best years, this was seriously impressive. Minerals, red fruits, smokey oak, spice, fruit tannins and very elegant. Dark, great balance and a hint bitter. This is just a baby but is a must try wine if you want to see the potential of the region.
Chateau du Cedre Cahors 'Le Cedre' 2007 100% Malbec. Toasty, Bordeaux like, earthy, dry stems, flesh, silk, vibrant, long and nicely balanced. Like the Le Cedre this is seriously impressive and shows off Cahors' best suit. Lovely drinking.
Chateau Bouscasse Pacherenc doux 'Les Larmes Celestes' 2010 100% Petit Manseng which has been late harvested but not affected by botrytis. This has a similar flavour profile to the Pacherenc sec (not surprisingly!) but is medium sweet and quite lush. Brilliant drinking with lovely refreshing acid to keep it clean and tidy.
Chateau du Cedre Vin de Liqueur 2010 100% Malbec. This is like a mini Port. There is less alcohol and sugar which makes it perfect for ending a meal and there is just enough spirit and structure to tackle cheese or savoury dishes but enough sweetness and vibrancy to match with chocolatey desserts.
Loujan Bas Armagnac Normally I avoid spirits as they are my Krytonite. This was lovely though. Nice perfume, quite elegant and really well balanced. Great way to warm up before heading out into the chilly Melbourne afternoon.
I'm a huge fan of the wines of Bordeaux but often find them just above my comfortable spending level for all but special occassions and those I can afford generally still need a year or 5 in the cellar to show their best. This event allowed me to cast my eyes further South and taste some interesting wines from Cahors and Madiran.
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| The main regions of the South West of France. |
South West France is used as a cover all descriptor for the fragmented regions between Bordeaux and Languedoc. Depending on the laws of each region the wines might be red, white, rose or even sweet. They may be made from the noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah or from 'lesser' varieties like Malbec (aka Cot aka Auxerrois), to the downright unsual Tannat, Petit or Gros Manseng or Petit Courbu. For more information on the area and its wines and producers check out TWD's South West France Offer or better still why not book into our Introduction to South West France tasting? Email for more details or see TWD's website.Quality is as fragmented as the regions laws and location. But today we had some stunning wines from two producers, local anti-hero Alain Brumont who Andrew Jefford describes the South West's very own Citizen Kane who has built up quite an empire of beautifully run estates including Montus and Bouscasse. We also tasted the much more amiable wines from the Verhaeghe family's du Cedre.
Maha put on a shared feast of delightful food and we were off.
Alain Brumont Gros Manseng & Sauvignon Blanc 2011 A great introduction to the tasting! Fleshy and exotically fruited with a lovely textural palate. Blending the familiar flavours of Sauvignon with the decidedly unknown quantity that is Gros Manseg. Overall a very enjoyable quaffing style white.
Chateau Bouscasse Pacherenc Sec 2008 100% Petit Courbu (first time I have knowingly tasted Courbu big or small!). I loved this wine's ripe and flavoursome outlook. Peaches and apricot kernel. Quite full and silky finish. Quite complex and very enjoyable.
Chateau du Cedre Cahors 'Heritage' 2009 90% Malbec, 10% Merlot. This wine showed dark fruits, while being light, fresh and a hint herbal. Some grippy fruit tannins were evident with some spice and cardomom notes. A great entry level to the reds of the region for drinking now.
.png "Chateau du Cedre Cahors 2009") |
| Du Cedre Cahors. |
Chateau Bouscasse Madiran 2009 Jumping now to Madiran where Tannat rules the roost. 65% Tannat, 25% Cab Sauv, 15% Cab Franc. Dark, minerally, hint of oak - somewhat reminiscent of Hunter Valley Shiraz. Nutty, smokey/flinty, nice acidity, silky and dense. Great wine! I love it now but it will improve with another 5 + years laying down.
Chateau Montus Madiran 2009 Dark, dense, smoke, hint red, hint floral, ash, complex, plummy and prunes. The palate was sweetly fruited, hint of aniseed, dense and silky with nice balance and savoury elements. 80% Tannat 20% Cab Sauv.
.png "Chateau Montus Madiran La Tyre 2009") |
| A wine that was set to stun. Delicious. |
Chateau du Cedre Cahors 'Le Cedre' 2007 100% Malbec. Toasty, Bordeaux like, earthy, dry stems, flesh, silk, vibrant, long and nicely balanced. Like the Le Cedre this is seriously impressive and shows off Cahors' best suit. Lovely drinking.
Chateau Bouscasse Pacherenc doux 'Les Larmes Celestes' 2010 100% Petit Manseng which has been late harvested but not affected by botrytis. This has a similar flavour profile to the Pacherenc sec (not surprisingly!) but is medium sweet and quite lush. Brilliant drinking with lovely refreshing acid to keep it clean and tidy.
.png) |
| Les Larmes Celestes - Lovely sweeter wine for those that enjoy finesse! |
Loujan Bas Armagnac Normally I avoid spirits as they are my Krytonite. This was lovely though. Nice perfume, quite elegant and really well balanced. Great way to warm up before heading out into the chilly Melbourne afternoon.
Sunday, 29 July 2012
Wine Of The Week
WINE OF THE WEEK
Greenstone Rosso di Colbo Sangiovese 2011
The Greenstone vineyard is the result of a lot of know how, experimentation and breaking a few 'rules'. There is a strong focus on producing good quality Sangiovese (to good results it would appear!) but of course in Heathcote you have to give Shiraz some floor space too.
This wine was one of the highlights from Saturday's tasting at Mezzo. It is everything I want from a great Sangiovese. This could give more than a few Chiantis a run for their money! It is savoury, dry and lean with a nice acid backbone. It shows dark fruits, a hint of oak and a light floral note. Brilliant drinking! It went particularly well with Mezzo's wild boar ragu!
$31ea - Cheaper by the dozen. Email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au for more info or orders.
Greenstone Rosso di Colbo Sangiovese 2011
The Greenstone vineyard is the result of a lot of know how, experimentation and breaking a few 'rules'. There is a strong focus on producing good quality Sangiovese (to good results it would appear!) but of course in Heathcote you have to give Shiraz some floor space too.
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| A great example of Sangiovese. |
$31ea - Cheaper by the dozen. Email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au for more info or orders.
Saturday, 28 July 2012
Italian Varieties in Australia Tasting @ Mezzo Restaurant 28/07/12
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| The place to be on this cold afternoon. |
You can see the notes I made for the tasting and if you are keen the order form is here.
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| The challenge for those who attended. |
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| Me (Phil) setting up. So much romantic screwcap crackle! |
While the whites were well received the red bracket was definitely the favourite of those who attended. We tasted Montevecchio Rosso 2011, also from Chalmers' Heathcote vineyard this was a field blend, containing Shiraz (yes there is some Shiraz in Italy), Lagrein, Nero d'Avola and Sagrantino. It was spicy, red fruited, mid weight and a hint savoury. Nice easy drinking and really showed well for the price. Staying in Heathcote we tasted Greenstone Rosso di Colbo Sangiovese 2011. The Greenstone story is fascinating to hear but the wines are just delicious! This is their entry level Sangio and it had all of the cherry, earthy and hint of meat and oak characters with the clean and dry elements celebrated in Chianti. This is an excellent wine! Building up in weight we went to Freeman Secco 2008, made in the style of Valpolicella and Amarone this uses Rondinella and Corvina grapes that are run through a prune dehydrator to concentrate the flavours (Amarone use an air drying process to achieve a similar result). There was plenty of red and blue fruits, a full weight in the mouth but a nice freshness and great balance with the acid and tannin elements and a dry finish. Finally we had a variety that I think has a lot of potential for Australia Beach Road Aglianico 2010. Beach Rd make a great range of Italian varieties from Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale, This is one of their best (in my opinion). I've recently been getting excited by Aglianico and this offers a lot of their big red and black fruit, leather notes, spice and a herbal edge. Nice palate length and very drinkable.
This is one of the most interesting tasting I've hosted as all these wines were so different from what we normally taste in Australia. There was almost a dead heat between the last three reds for most popular wine with Mac Forbes Arneis following close behind. Thanks to those that came out and hopefully we can top this tasting next month.
Thursday, 12 July 2012
Dinner With William Downie 10/07/12 at Scopri
It was 5.59pm on Tuesday and I took a call from Matthew Hanson who I have chatted to regularly for well over 5 years now and who runs Fine Wine Appreciation Melbourne http://www.finewineappreciation.com.au/ . He said he had a last minute withdrawal from his William Downie dinner so would I like to come along? "It starts at 7pm" he added. I had been keen to go as I've loved Bill's wines since day two (there is an amusing story about day one but I shall save that for another time!) but the dinner filled up before I responded. Given I had just opened a bottle of wine to cook dinner with and it was corked, it was obviously a sign that I should go. So I did.
Bill Downie has been on a wine making odyssey that has seen him work at tiny producers and large wine factories most notably in Australia and Burgundy. Since 2003 he has also been making Pinot Noir under his own name from the Yarra Valley and subsequently added Mornington Peninsula and Gippsland to the range complemented by a one off wine (or two).
I made it to Scopri - fast becoming my second home with plenty of time to spare and a thirst! The dinner was to be four courses, each matched with a pair of wines Bill had made. Once again I have to say that Scopri's ability to match food to wine is outstanding.
Roasted quail with puy lentils and pancetta
William Downie Mornington Pinot Noir 2011 Red berries, bright fruits, floral, vibrant, pure Mornington Pinot. The palate was tart, clean with a hint of oak and spice, clean and crunchy.
William Downie Mornington Pinot Noir 2008 Much darker in colour and flavour than the 2011. 2008 was much warmer compared to the wet and cold 2011 vintage and it showed in all the wines. Curranty, aniseed, hint savoury.
Richly fruited in the mouth with more muscle and tannin. Great length with red fruits coming up on the finish.
Potato ravioli with veal ragu
William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2011 Red fruits, spice, earth, jubey, lavender, pepper, dense. Silky, great flesh, vibrant, spice, fine and lean with a flinty note. Very long, fine and even tannins, savoury finish. Much more dense and savoury compared with the Mornington.
William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008 Dark, plums, currants, spice, rose petal/floral, lifted.
Rich mouthfeel, ripe fruits, vibrant, sour cherry, muscular tannins and a hint bitter (in the positive refreshing mould), good length.
Braised beef cheeks
William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2011 Tart, tea leaf, smoke, roses, red fruits, blood orange, pretty nose with an earthy edge. The palate showed red fruits that were vibrant and juicy with some dark fruit almost fruit cake like notes. The finish was fine, taut and structured. Great finesse. Possibly my favourite of the 2011s but it really is just splitting hairs and a little bit unfair to compare such young wines.
William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2008 Dark and meaty. Some of the spiced hung meats, oaky, dense and intense. In the mouth it offered lifted lavender, creamy big oxy berries. Sweet fruits, silk, vibrancy, fine fruit tannins, good length and a hint of bitterness.
Italian cheeses
Thousand Candles 2011 This is the first release of this wine. I won't try and replicate Bill's story about this wine because I couldn't fake his passion and belief. But this wine came about when he was asked to make a wine that speaks of the best of what Australia can do. He has full control of the process from the vineyard to the final packaging.
The wine is from one vineyard in the Yarra Valley and is a blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. The blend came about because Bill and the team felt that on their own they had three OK wines, but together they had a wine that offered "Truth in the Glass". The wine spoke of where it came from. The wine making process was simply "Whole bunches in a vessel." No destemming, no yeast additions, no crushing, no punched downs or pump overs. Even the Sauv Blanc was made with full stems and skins. In fact it spent almost a year on skins which would be considered almost heresy in most peoples winemaking manuals.
The wine itself was stunning. Dusty, gravel, earth, stemmy, tight, tart red berry fruits, hint sappy with spice. The palate was juicy, vibrant, silky, meaty, with great fruit tannins, smoke/flint. It evolved a lot in the glass. I felt like I could picture the vineyard in my head as I drank it. I'd love to visit the place in the near future. It sounds amazing.
There is quite a lovely story about how the name and the label came about. But that takes a bit of time and if far better to hear from Bill himself.
William Downie Petit Manseng 2009 Hailing from the King Valley, this wine came about because Bill had no Pinot in 09. So rather than compromise he thought he'd find something completely different. Petit Manseng makes brilliant high acid sweet wines in the Southern French region of Jurancon. This wine was a fair facsimilie. Tropical, floral, pure and clean. With a waxy bitterness and piercing acid to balance out the sweetness. It had great intensity and was a lovely way to finish the evening. Only topped by a second glass of the Thousand Candles!
Overall it was a great experience. It's not often I get to taste so many classy Australian wines in one sitting. So I have to say thanks to Matt for the invite and Bill for the wines!
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| Bill's three Pinots.(LtoR) Gippsland, Mornington, Yarra. |
Bill Downie has been on a wine making odyssey that has seen him work at tiny producers and large wine factories most notably in Australia and Burgundy. Since 2003 he has also been making Pinot Noir under his own name from the Yarra Valley and subsequently added Mornington Peninsula and Gippsland to the range complemented by a one off wine (or two).
I made it to Scopri - fast becoming my second home with plenty of time to spare and a thirst! The dinner was to be four courses, each matched with a pair of wines Bill had made. Once again I have to say that Scopri's ability to match food to wine is outstanding.
 |
| The back labels are a bit more informative.... A bit. |
Roasted quail with puy lentils and pancetta
William Downie Mornington Pinot Noir 2011 Red berries, bright fruits, floral, vibrant, pure Mornington Pinot. The palate was tart, clean with a hint of oak and spice, clean and crunchy.
William Downie Mornington Pinot Noir 2008 Much darker in colour and flavour than the 2011. 2008 was much warmer compared to the wet and cold 2011 vintage and it showed in all the wines. Curranty, aniseed, hint savoury.
Richly fruited in the mouth with more muscle and tannin. Great length with red fruits coming up on the finish.
Potato ravioli with veal ragu
William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2011 Red fruits, spice, earth, jubey, lavender, pepper, dense. Silky, great flesh, vibrant, spice, fine and lean with a flinty note. Very long, fine and even tannins, savoury finish. Much more dense and savoury compared with the Mornington.
William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008 Dark, plums, currants, spice, rose petal/floral, lifted.
Rich mouthfeel, ripe fruits, vibrant, sour cherry, muscular tannins and a hint bitter (in the positive refreshing mould), good length.
 |
| Yep, I defaced my menu with all the vital notes you are currently reading. |
William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2011 Tart, tea leaf, smoke, roses, red fruits, blood orange, pretty nose with an earthy edge. The palate showed red fruits that were vibrant and juicy with some dark fruit almost fruit cake like notes. The finish was fine, taut and structured. Great finesse. Possibly my favourite of the 2011s but it really is just splitting hairs and a little bit unfair to compare such young wines.
William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2008 Dark and meaty. Some of the spiced hung meats, oaky, dense and intense. In the mouth it offered lifted lavender, creamy big oxy berries. Sweet fruits, silk, vibrancy, fine fruit tannins, good length and a hint of bitterness.
Italian cheeses
 |
| Thousand Candles - you just have to taste it. |
The wine is from one vineyard in the Yarra Valley and is a blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. The blend came about because Bill and the team felt that on their own they had three OK wines, but together they had a wine that offered "Truth in the Glass". The wine spoke of where it came from. The wine making process was simply "Whole bunches in a vessel." No destemming, no yeast additions, no crushing, no punched downs or pump overs. Even the Sauv Blanc was made with full stems and skins. In fact it spent almost a year on skins which would be considered almost heresy in most peoples winemaking manuals.
The wine itself was stunning. Dusty, gravel, earth, stemmy, tight, tart red berry fruits, hint sappy with spice. The palate was juicy, vibrant, silky, meaty, with great fruit tannins, smoke/flint. It evolved a lot in the glass. I felt like I could picture the vineyard in my head as I drank it. I'd love to visit the place in the near future. It sounds amazing.
There is quite a lovely story about how the name and the label came about. But that takes a bit of time and if far better to hear from Bill himself.
William Downie Petit Manseng 2009 Hailing from the King Valley, this wine came about because Bill had no Pinot in 09. So rather than compromise he thought he'd find something completely different. Petit Manseng makes brilliant high acid sweet wines in the Southern French region of Jurancon. This wine was a fair facsimilie. Tropical, floral, pure and clean. With a waxy bitterness and piercing acid to balance out the sweetness. It had great intensity and was a lovely way to finish the evening. Only topped by a second glass of the Thousand Candles!
Overall it was a great experience. It's not often I get to taste so many classy Australian wines in one sitting. So I have to say thanks to Matt for the invite and Bill for the wines!
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