Spanish Master Class @ Mezzo

Spanish Masterclass

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About Spain
According to figures from the OIV (International Organization of Wine and Vine), in 2011 Spain had 1,032,000 hectare of vineyards planted. 225,000 hectare more than second most prolific France. 97.4% was used for wine making. In 2011 they produced 34,300,000 hectolitres of wine compared to France 49,633,000 and Italy 41,580,000. Australia had 174,000ha making 11,010,000hl of wine.

The best regions have laws similar to France’s AOC or Italy’s DOC laws under the banner of Protected Denomination of Origin (PDO).

Denomination of Origin (DO) – For ‘prestigious Spanish wines’ with five years of recognised quality production. The Consejo Regulador  governs the parametres of production. 
Qualified Denomination of Origin. (DOCa) – Regions that have 10 years of DO quality wines. The wines must be bottled in wineries within the region where they are produced and follow the laws of the regulating body.
Estate Wine (Vino de Pago) – Recognising distinctive sites. They must comply with DOCa requirements while being vinified and  bottled at the vineyard.
Qualified Estate Wine (Vino de Pago Calificado) – If the Vino de Pago is wholly within a DOCa and fulfils the Vino de Pago laws it can be granted this classification.

Important Varieties For Quality

Tempranillo – Top quality grape grown all over the Peninsula (with many pseudonyms). Can be used for Rosado or Joven all the way up to Gran Reserva. Ages well – said to compare to Burgundy. Cherry, cola typical descriptors.
Garnacha – AKA Grenache. Most famous in Priorat and Montsant. Blends well with Tempranillo.
Mencia – Similar to Cabernet Franc makes stunning wines from Bierzo, Valdeorras and surrounding regions.
Albarino – Native of Galicia and the main grape of Rias Baixas. Great perfume and texture.
Palomino – The main variety of Sherry production. Used for Fino/Manzanilla, Amontillado and Oloroso production.
Sparkling Varieties – Macabeo, Xarel.lo and Parellada combine to make the stunning Methode Traditionelle wines of Cava with some Chardonnay on occasion. Generally all three are quite ordinary for table wine production.

Important Regions For Quality

Rioja – A large and varied region and Spain’s quality flagship. Alta and Alavesa are the high altitude cooler parts and Baja the low hot lands. Producer is the most important determiner of quality. The Spanish equivalent of the Barossa.
Ribera del Duero – Rivalling Rioja for quality. This valley that follows the Duero (Duoro in Portugal) is high altitude with sandy soils. The best are extremely elegant wines. Tempranillo dominates production.
Jerez – The southern town that is responsible for Sherry. Need I say more?
Priorat – Robust wines made of Garnacha and Cariñena (aka Carignan)  grown on schisty slopes perched high in the mountains near Barcelona.
Biezro – Continental climate and high altitude vineyards combined with schist laden soils means these wines are elegant, fine and perfumed. Easily some of the best wines in Spain.    
Rias Baixas – Translates to ‘low rivers’, the best producers in this white only DO make perfumed, elegant and textured wines that really sing with seafood.

Give it a rest The aging categories in Spain can be confusing but they are summarised below as:
Joven Generally unoaked and released early for immediate consumption.
Vino de crianza (crianza wine) Reds minimum of 24 months, of which 6 months are spent in oak. White and rosé wines aged for at least 18 months.
Reserva Red wines that are aged for a minimum of 36 months. At least 12 months in oak and the rest in the bottle. White and rosé aged for 18 months, to include 6 months on wood.
Gran Reserva Red wines aged for a minimum of 60 months, to include at least 18 months in oak. White and rosé wines aged for 48 months, to include 6 months on wood.

Quality sparkling wines may use the “Premium” and “Reserva” indications; the “Gran Reserva” indication may be used by those sparkling wines that have been given the Cava designation and which have undergone ageing for at least 30 months from tirage to disgorging.

The Wines

2006 Juvé y Camps ‘Reserva de la Familia’ Brut Nature Gran Reserva
33% Macabeo, 33% Xarel.lo, 34% Parellada. Dense, leesy, zesty, floral, clean and very long. The best Cava (and this is one of them) is made in the Champagne method but tend to be a lot lighter and crisper due to the native varieties used. Very nice drinking for starting a meal.

2010 Valmiñor Albariño  D.O. Rías Baixas
Albarino is Spain's best white grape. This wine has great balance, its very textural and floral with candied citrus and hints of savoury, doughy notes. Very long. Rias Baixas is a white only region on the West coast of Spain. These wines are made for seafood and this would be awesome with scallops.

2010 Telmo Rodriguez ‘El Transistor’ Verdejo D.O Rueda
Also known as Verdehlo this grape is a bit of a work horse making lots of easy going wine for immediate consumption. This wine is the next level up. Crystaline, pure and clean, hints of oak complement the dense white and yellow fruits. There is plenty of fat on the mid-palate and a floral almost aloe vera like finish.

2008 Dominio Do Bibei Lacima D.O Ribeira Sacra
100% Mencia - a variety close to my heart. Mencia is thought to be related to Cabernet Franc if not genetically definitely flavour wise. Crushed raspberries, dried and fresh herbs, floral clean and tight. There is a stony core to this wine and a spine of acid and tannin that make it compelling drinking. Try having just one glass!

2008 Alvaro Palacios ‘Finca Dofi’D.O Priorat (DOCa) Grenache dominant blend from one of Spain's best regions. The Palacios family is almost royalty in Spain This wine was dark fruited, smokey/schisty. tea leaf and chocolatey. There is plenty of presence and power in the mouth. As is typical of the region this wine really needs a few more years to soften out and develop some secondary characters. Impressive drinking none-the-less.

2008 Remondo ‘Propiedad’ D.O Rioja (DOCa) Grenache dominant with Tempranillo making up the balance from Rioja Baja. Dry, savoury, pure, dark fruits, with a hint of prunes. The palate on this wine is all silk and seduction. Really shows the potential of the Rioja low lands.

2005 Alion D.O Ribera del Duero
100% Tempranillo from the famous Vega Sicilia stable of wines. Easily the wine of the night as the extra age has given a beautiful depth. Meaty, red, blue and black fruits, fresh, spicy, silky and ever evolving in the glass. A great experience and captures the essence of Tempranillo. A must try for wine lovers.

28 Navazos La Bota de Oloroso Bota Punta D.O Jerez de la Frontera (375ml)        
Walnut, spice, pepper, incredibly floral, hazelnuts, the palate is clean with wonderful mouthfilling hints of dried fruits. Such an amazing experince to drink pure concentrated Oloroso.

The Entry level Wines
NV Segura Viudas Aria Brut
Charming, light, fresh, citrusy Cava that is all too easy to drink. Great drinking no matter what the occasion is.

2011 Viña Olabarri Viura Blanco D.O. La Rioja AltaMainly made from Viura it is a light fresh, apple and pear with a hint of floral. The palate has some good texture and waxy notes. Very pleasant to sip.

2011 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Basa’ Verdejo D.O Rueda
Classic easy goingh Verdejo that can be served cold to be refreshing or served at cellar temperature to appreciate the subtle flavours and textures.

2010 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Pétalos’ Mencia D.O. Bierzo
A stunning producer who makes Mencia that rivals the best wines of Burgundy. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough. So fresh and vibrant with the mineral core.

2011 Agnès de Cervera ‘La Petite Agnès’ Garnacha Samsó D.O Priorat (DOCa)
Amazingly good wine showing the typical Priorat dark fruit power, schisty drive and overall muscle.

2011 Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ D.O Rioja (DOCa)
The unoaked younger brother of the Propiedad, it is unoaked and made to be drunk young and fresh. There is less fruit power but the extra vibrancy and tart fruit makes up for that easily.

2011 Cillar di Silos Joven de Silos D.O Ribera del Duero
Very classy Tempranillo from a fabulous producer. Full of crunchy red fruits and floral notes. A very refreshing wine that shows the Tempranillos other personality (compared to the Alion above).

Romate Oloroso ‘Don Jose’ D.O. Jeréz
A true gem of a drink. Oloroso is often overlooked as people either head for the bone dry or the sweet styles. This wine shows the joy of texture and subtle flavours you get with Oloroso. Such a great and versitile food wine too.

 

Tall Tales: Tasting Tempranillo

Tempranillo is a Spanish variety, perhaps the Spanish variety. It is grown all over Spain and Portugal (under various and confusing local names) and produces wines from light and fresh Roses, tart and fruity unoaked reds to dense, complex and structured reds that sit somewhere between and rival Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone or Piedmont.

I was recently able to taste a range of Tempranillo based wines from the two best Tempranillo regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. My brief tasting notes are below. But first, a small bit of info on each region or D.O. (Denominacion de Origen).  

All of these wines are available for sale, if you want to place an order or have questions/comments please email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au
Rioja is quite diverse in varieties used, styles made, and terroir. The wines range from rich, dark and powerful through to subtle, refined and refreshing. This means that there is as much focus on the producers and their respective styles as the sub region it comes from. There are three sub regions in Rioja:
Baja; the hot, dry low lands where Garnacha (Grenache) prospers. Powerful and ripe wines prevail.
Alavesa; home of the highest altitude vineyards and Basque influenced. Elegant Tempranillo is made here.
Alta; also high altitude and producing elegant wines but Castille dominated culturally.

The Ribera del Duero region shares the same focal point as the famous Portuguese region of Port; namely the Duero River (known as the Douro when it crosses the border in to Portugal). The region is a valley that follows the rivers course and is a bit more even in terms of terroir (compared to Rioja) and the focus tends to be on single variety Tempranillo. Elegance and perfume is the order of the day here. Wines are either made on the sandy river flats or slightly elevated stoney soils further up the valley.

A few of the best Rioja to be had.

  

Artadi, D.O Rioja (Rioja Alavesa) A good producer of fruity and aromatic wines with character and charm. Plenty of structure and personality in the top level wines.

2009 Artadi 'Estate' Tempranillo $33.00ea Bright and crunchy red fruits. The palate is soft and spicy with fluffy red & blue fruits.
2008 Artadi ’Vinas De Gain’ Tempranillo $58.00ea Increased depth (compared to Estate), meaty and spicy. Denser palate that shows more oak, tannin and intensity. Still quite subtle and enjoyable though.

Garnacha at its finest!

Palacios Remondo, D.O Rioja (Rioja Baja) A favourite producer of mine. These wines display the strong suits of Garnacha and Tempranillo together. The Propiedad is a seriously impressive drink.

2010 Palacios Remondo 'La Vendimia' Garnacha Tempranillo $30.00ea Simple, easy drinking red jubey fruit. The palate is mid-weight rounded and a bit firm. The Garnacha certainly leads the way here but there is nice elegance from the Tempranillo.
2008 Palacios Remondo ‘La Montesa’ Garnacha Tempranillo $45.00ea  Dark, curranty fruit with a hint of fruit cake. It is quite rounded and generous with a long finish. This is a definite step up in quality.
2008 Palacios Remondo 'Propiedad' Garnacha Tempranillo $78.00ea Dark, savoury and earthy nose, it really needs a bit of time. Silky, sexy and savoury/truffle notes in the mouth, long finishing and extremely enjoyable.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O Rioja (Rioja Alavesa) A vinous equivalent of a 'rockstar'. Telmo makes excellent wines from the best regions and varieties in Spain. He gives a great overview of the country's styles in a modern form.

2008 Telmo Rodriguez 'Lanzaga' Tempranillo $66.00ea Hint of sulphur and flint, the nose is dark, gamey, with spice and pepper. There is a rounded mouthfeel, red fruits with good length of flavour.

Vineyard in Rioja

Remelluri, D.O Rioja (Rioja Alavesa) The family Estate of Telmo Rodriguez. This is more traditional and savoury with a strong tie in with the Old School Bordeaux influenced Rioja style. These are great wines.

2006 Remelluri Reserva $75.00ea A strong whiff of volatile acidity first off which leads to currants and lavender and blueberry fruits. It is full, thick, tannic, earthy and creamy/vanilla oaky. I think this bottle was faulty - I've had wines from this producer that are outstanding.

Bodegas Roda, D.O Rioja (La Rioja Alta) Pure, pristine, perfumed and almost haunting. These guys really play up the Burgundian leanings of Tempranillo. They should be on your must try list.

2007 Roda Reserva $100.00ea Plum, smoke, bacon, hint flora. Dry, savoury and pristine on the palate. Very enjoyable.

Ébano Viñedos y Bodegas, D.O. Ribera del Duero An Estate owned by the awesome producer Valminor in Rias Baixas (great Albarino white wines). Still a young venture but looks promising.

2010 ‘Ébano 6’ (Tinta del Pais) Tempranillo $29.00ea Tart, red fruited and bright almost white wine like lift. Lighter bodied, good core of fruit with a quite tannic backbone.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O Ribera del Duero Telmo's wines are all made in a similar way, it is great to be able to try his Rioja and Ribera wines next to each other to see the differences and nuances of the regions.

2010 Telmo Rodriguez 'Gazur' Tempranillo $37.00ea Pepper, red fruits, floral and soot. Sweet red currants, a hint bitter and clean. Beautifully refreshing Tempranillo.

Hernando y Sourdais, D.O. Ribera del Duero Wines made from high altitude, organic vineyards some of which pre-date phylloxera - impressive potential.

2009 Hernado y Sourdais 'Antidoto' Tempranillo $46.00ea Bright, grapey & estery punctuated by tart and crunchy red fruits, floral hints and a fine tannic structure.

Cillar De Silos, D.O Ribera del Duero A lovely producer and one of the few wines I buy every year. Their elegance and balance belie the fact that these wines age gracefully for a very long time. Highly recommended.  

2008 Silos 'Estate' Tempranillo $75.00ea Smoke, meat, dark fruits, bitter chocolate, cola and a sweet nutty note. It is mid-weight, silky, red and blue fruited, currants and bitter chocolate. This is an elegant wine of great balance and a long savoury finish.

Vineyard in Ribera del Duero

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O Ribera del Duero

2007 Telmo Rodriguez 'M2 de Matallana' Tempranillo $75.00ea Oxy dark fruits, oaky with dense earth almost terracotta like character. Blue & purple fruits, spicy oak, smoke, good length. This is a beefier and riper style of Tempranillo.

Bodegas y Vinedos Arnaldo, D.O. Ribera del Duero Run by the genius behind Iconic Spanish winery Pingus. This is a new project that could be Spain's next big thing.

2009 Bodegas y Vinedos Arnaldo 'PSI' Tempranillo $85.00ea Ferment esters, tart red and blue berry fruits. Dry palate, light bodied. 

Wines From The Cellar

Over the past little while I've been tasting wines from TWD's cellar to make sure they are still in good condition (yep, that is the real reason for sure!). Here are some of the highlights.

You can see the current list here and email any orders or questions to: philip@thewinedepository.com.au

DOMAINE RASPAIL-AY GIGNONDAS 2008 & 1998
Founded in 1854 with 18 hectares under vine planted to Grenache (80%) Syrah (15%) and Mourvedre (5%) proprietor Dominique-Ay keeps things very simple at Gigondas’ (a highly under rated appellation in Southern Rhone) finest address – one red and one Rosé. The Raspail-Ay Gigondas reflects the appellation’s characteristics faithfully in an elegantly robust style which needs four or so years for the tannins to meld with the wine.
The 2008 shows all the youthful Grenache dark fruits, with raspberry and rose lift backed up with a strong savoury streak, lovely fine structure and a mouth filling weight. Needs a bit of air but is lovely.
The 1998 shows stunning similarities to the 2008 with more leather and earth characters coming through. Still altogether and in great health.

CHATEAU DE BEAUCASTEL COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL 2008
One of the top Chateauneuf du Pape producers. Stunning wines that age well and impress no end. One of the few producers to actively use all the 13 permitted varieties. This wine is from their vineyards just outside of the Chateauneuf boundary but still offers great depth and plenty of rich fruit. Dense fruit cake, chocolate, earth, gravel, leather, game, olives and spices. Very dry palate with firm tannins but with the flesh to balance it out. Opens up with air and offers some red fruits and roses.

ROCKFORD DRY COUNTRY BAROSSA VALLEY GRENACHE 1995
An icon of the Barossa and Australia. They make great wines and wines to last. This is more red berries and a hint sweeter than the Rhones but no less impressive or drinkable. The extra fruit and floral components balance out the strong meaty, peppery and leather notes. 

COLLECTOR WINES LAMP LIT WHITE 2010
Small batches and made by hand with a lot of care. The fruit sourced around the Canberra District, these wines have been impressive since day one. A classy example of Marsanne (with a hint of Roussanne and Viognier) – really fragrant, honeysuckle, peach and melons with a floral lift. The palate is rich and generous of flavour but is not fat or oily. There is the slightest hint of funk/doughy/leesy character which adds a nice dimension. Really lovely drinking.

DOMAINE AUX MOINES SAVENNIERES-ROCH-AUX-MOINES 1997
Savennieres is a neighbour of Vouvray but not nearly as well-known region with only Nicholas Joly producing wines that you hear of. This Domaine, headed by a clearly talented Mother & daughter team makes some truly fascinating wines. A lovely example of older Chenin Blanc. Minerally with tight acid, pepper and spices. Pears and stone fruits. Lovely floral lift. Showing some caramel development with a hint of smoke. The palate is rich but with a steely dryness and a lime like acid streak.

DOMAINE BAUMARD SAVENNIERES 1996
A sadly unheralded producer of some of the best whites in the world. Again, all made from Chenin Blanc and made with love and attention to terroir. These wines will age for a long time, but make some fascinating drinking all through their life. Very clean and pure, precise minerally acid that everything else is built around. Showing youthful stone fruits, stones and a hint of honey. This is a great drink.

FRANKLAND ESTATE ROCKY GULLY RIESLING 2010
Frankland Estate is one of Australia's best Riesling producers. Making wines from the Frankland River Region in Southern Western Australia, they use a lot of German, Austrian and Alsatian techniques to make textured and complex Rieslings and more. This is one of their entry level wines and looking to be bargain of the year! Floral, lovely layers of flavour and great structure. This a stunning example of what they can do.

KILLIBINBIN BLEND LANGHORNE CREEK 2002 Langhorne Creek for many years has been bolstering the big brand wines from South Australia – mostly anonymously. Which is a shame because the region has great potential in its own right. This is a lovely Cab/Shiraz blend that has richness, plenty of flavour – dark and red berries, leather, spice, earth and a hint of spirit (without being hot). The palate is lush and delicious. Drinking beautifully now.

JOSEPH FAIVELEY CLOS DE ROI MERCUREY 1ER CRU 1996 Faiveley are a large business in Burgundy who own large parcels all over the Cotes. Including 70ha in Mercurey – a mostly overlooked region South of the Cote d’Or. The wines here make a lighter, more minerally, cleaner style. But as this wine shows, they still offer great drinking AND great value. Minerals, iron stone with rose petals, raspberries and tart red fruits. The palate is lean and clean with fine grain tannins that linger. Really impressive drinking.

DOM MONGEARD-MUGNERET CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 2004 A lovely producer of silky, rich Burgundies that are drinkable young, but have a surprising knack of holding on for longer than you may think. This is a really impressive effort from a difficult year. Lots of red fruits, dark plums and olives with a hint of stem. Shows the typical Chambolle like silk, flesh and vibrancy.

Matteo's Dinner 06/02/12 - Bring A Bottle Night

One of the highlights of the year is Patrick's Bring A Bottle Night. Not to take away from his hard and inspired work of assembling wines of a theme and quality suitable for our demanding palates, but on this night everyone pulls out all stops to bring a bottle of incredible quality.

We did have a few corked/NQR wines this night. However, in the past, we've had an unbelieveably good strike rate.

The rules are simple:
* Each person brings one bottle.
* This bottle is least 10 years old and from a classic European Region.
* Each wine is served blind. Only the convener of the night knows all the wines.
* Each wine is guessed using the 'options' game.
* A good night is had by all.

This night we indulged in...

Larmandier Bernier Brut Tradition NV Champagne Still my go to Champagne when I have the luxury to drink it. Floral, good stone fruits, plenty of chalky/minerally/stoney notes. Great balance on the palate. Opens up with time in the glass as it gets warmer. Delicious. All hail the king of the growers!

Josmeyer Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 1997 Alsace Smells lovely. Floral, lime, pure, crystalline, talc, banana skin, dry and savoury.
The palate is lean with nice mouthfeel, very clean, hint oxidised on the finish.  A great drink.

Muller Caroir Haatdter Burgergarten Riesling Trocken 2000 Pfalz Spice, peaches, melons, floral and lime. Just a whiff of liquid paper (but in a good way if that makes sense?).
Zesty, dry, citrus icypole. Less body than the Josmeyer but really refreshing.

Dr Burklin Wolf Ruppertsberger Geisbohl Riesling Spatlese 1970 Pfalz Really rich. Crab meat like, peppermint, toasty, minerally/stoney, buttery.
A lot of richness on the palate. Hints of botrytis, honey, creme brulee and spice. Looking really good for its age.
Incidentally I tasted this wine with Patrick about 9 years previously as a young, timid and beardless wine sales assistant. It tastes better than I remembered then.

Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 1999 Rhone Valley This was my wine. I smelt it in my initial run through and thought, "Gee I hope that isn't mine". D'Oh!!!! It was stale, that is all I can say. It wasn't corked. Didn't seem oxidised. It was just stale. I have tasted this wine previously and it was stunning. As James Halliday once said, "There are no great old wines. Just great old bottles."

Rayas Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 Rhone Valley Stoney, red fruits, floral, compost, zesty. Perhaps a hint of brett? (what is brett?)
Silky, meaty/bretty, vibrant fruits, dry leaves, pickles. A really enjoyable wine from a great producer.

Sassacaia Bohlgeri 2000 (update 26/3/12 thank you anonymous) Tuscany The initial offering of a Barolo was corked. So our generous donator went and sourced a bottle of Super Tuscan to fill in our line up. Frustratingly, I did not write down the vintage. I shall find it and correct this error!
Bananas, vibrant, liqueur fruit compote, caramelly oak.
Rich, ripe, vibrant, jelly fruits, very firm tannins. Young, dense, tight, syrupy fruits and tar.
Impressive wine, very young though and has a lot of time ahead of it.

Hammand-Geoffrey Gevrey Chambertin La Bossiere 1er Cru Monopole 1998 Burgundy Dry, minerally, stoney, tea leaf, zesty.
The palate was rich, light, mineral laden clean and fresh.

Chateau Ferrand Lartigue St-Emilion 1996 Bordeaux Beautiful nose. Pure, rich, lifted, cheesy. Lovely.
Light, pretty, fresh, aromatic. A very Burgundian Bordeaux in a lot of ways.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel St Estephe 1993 Bordeaux Pea, straw/grass, red fruits, smoke, minerals.
Dry, stoney, silky, pepper and jelly fruits.
This is one of my fav Bordeaux Chateau. It is always a pleasure to taste this wine!

Chateau Lagrange St Julien 1995 Bordeaux Corked. Sadly. It happens. What did James Halliday say again?

Chateau Soutard St Emilion Grand Cru 1989  Bordeaux Pure, dry leaf, herbal, minerals.
Silky palate, dark fruits, meaty, jelly fruits,
currants, dry tannins. Resembles an old Coonawarra Cab.

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1989 Bordeaux Pure, dark, steak, plums, currants, floral/violets.
Silky, pure, dry spice, seamless, clay notes, tobacco.
Another of my fav Bordeaux. It was looking spectacular!

Fonseca Vintage Port I missed the vintage of this wine too. However, it was young, vibrant and rich. Like any of the charming Grand Marque Port houses.