WINE OF THE WEEK

WINE OF THE WEEK:
JL Chave Selection Offerus Saint-Joseph 2008 - Chave is one of the top producers in the Northern Rhone Valley, world famous from their exemplary Hermitage (see my previous Chave encounter here).
The Selecion label is the Chave negociant arm which that allows them to buy fruit from outside vineyards to make more wine at a more affordable price. As the name suggests, the parcels are carefully selected to make sure they don't damage their fine reputation.

Offerus at casual rest, ready for shipping.

I'll admit this wine is a baby which is why it made it to the TWD April Cellar Dozen, but it is just so well balanced and complex it's hard to leave alone. This St Joseph is savoury, mineral, spicy and structured Syrah. It is quite tight and backwards when first opened but with air shows beautiful cherry and plum fruit, hints of Rose petals, pepper, toasty/bacony oak. The tannins are a bit gritty at first, but the fruit develops over the top to provide excellent balance. As discovered last night, this wine is great with a rib-eye and even gnocchi.
$59ea - cheaper by the dozen.

email orders to philip@thewinedepository.com.au

Awesome Australian Wine

Today is my 30th Birthday. What better way to celebrate then tasting some of my favourite Australian wines?
That's right, on my birthday I was willing to brave inclement weather and bad Melbourne traffic to taste wines - so they would have be special. And I wasn't disappointed.

These wines are for sale and wines I recommend, I have included the price which is correct at the time of publishing. They are subject to change in price and availability.

If you want to order please email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au or call 0418 230482



Lovely, lovely Ngeringa Chardy.

The first table I visited was occupied by my friend Erinn from Ngeringa based in the Adelaide Hills. Erinn and the team make really thoughtful, elegant and expressive wines from their biodynamic vineyards. We tasted through some of his range which included the stunning Ngeringa Chardonnay 2009 ($42ea), a lovely and lean chard with purity, clean stone fruits and a floral lift. The Chard is one of the best wines they make in my opinion. The Viognier 2010 ($48ea) and Viognier dominant blend JE Assemblage White 2010 ($27ea) both had excellent textural qualities with aromatic complexity and great subtlety - quite rare for Australian Viognier.
The reds kicked off with his elegant, savoury and silky Pinot Noir 2009 ($42ea). This is a wine of great perfume and certainly opened up with air. Then we tasted two Syrah - the flagship variety at the winery. JE Syrah 2009 ($27ea) showed delicate aromas of cola, pepper and cardomon with hints of blood orange and plums. The palate was balanced, savoury and with lovely fine drying tannins. The big show Syrah 2008 ($53ea) was showing its typical refined lean, smokey, spicy and savoury nose. The palate was very fine and a hint on the tannic side. The palate was not as impressively balanced and vibrant as previous years; Erinn explained that as it is from a difficult year (extremely hot conditions plagued the country), and picked early to retain the freshness and acidity. They took a lot of care to make it the best possible wine they could and he was proud of the result given how many producers picked later and produced jammy, alcoholic wines.
I tend to agree, with a bit of time in the bottle (or the right food match) and this wine would be stunning.
Still one of my favourite wineries in Australia.



Next stop was the Jamsheed table. Gary Mills has been making some of the best wines in Victoria for a while now, in the April TWD Magazine I featured some of his entry level wines in the drink now list. I would encourage you to taste these wines as they are extremely drinkable and amazingly good value. I also got to try his Gewurztraminer, Riesling (and friends) blend Le Blank Plonk 2010 ($21ea), the Gewurz definitely sticks out on the nose with its lychee and rose water notes. The Riesling adds a citrusy spine and length to the palate. This is refreshing and very drinkable. I also tried some of his Roussanne which I did not catch the vintage or price of but throughly enjoyed for its faint stone fruits and white flower notes and mineral purity and textural bliss.

After that was a chat with James Lance and his wines from Punch in the Yarra. James' offerings were a bit unique and special because they had lost all of their fruit in 2009 due to the fires that came through the vineyards. With the support of vineyards in Victoria and New Zealand there was the birth of the label 'Friends Of Punch'. And there was a lot to like about the wines. Gippsland based Mallani Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 ($36ea) had everything I want in good Chard. Silky, vibrant and elegant. Plenty of stone fruits, floral notes and citrus. Great balance and lots of length of flavour. It was so good for the price. The best of the friends wine (to my palate) was the Quartz Reef Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009 ($65ea). Quartz Reef is a producer in Central Otago (Kristina and I spent some time with Rudi on our trip in 2007 and loved every second). They made some batches with the Punch style in mind and let them pick how they wanted them blended. The wine was then sent to Punch for finishing. The result is a smokey, dense, full, spicy and tasty Pinot. There is lovely structure and good length of flavour. Very drinkable. By contrast there was also the Bannockburn Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009 ($65ea) which was more savoury, herbal, undergrowth like Pinot. It was very tight and tannic at the moment. The final Friends of Punch wine I tasted was the very Rhone like juby, smokey, slightly herbal and fine boned Bannockburn Vineyards Syrah 2009 ($65ea), one for the cellar!
James was also offering advanced tastings of his 2010 wines. Chardonnay, Pinot and Close Planted Pinot all looked amazing. You will hear more about them when they are released. They are knock outs.

I did taste a few other wines before I headed home to celebrate my birthday without having to spit the pretty wines. But I'll save those stories for another day.

Italian Wines

There has been some seriously good wine consumed at the Red House (TWD HQ) and at events. At home we've had some awesome Italian wines. All red and a lot of them have been because customers have tipped me off.

If you want more information or would like to order any of them (or all of them) you can email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au or call 0418 23 04 82.

I love the wines from Veneto, and in particular from Valpolicella (including Amarone) as seen here, here and here. I think they have a good cross over point from new world wine drinkers who want to put their toe in the water in Italy. They are also extremely yummy, which makes them great for wine drinkers in general.
Allegrini is one of the best Estates in Valpolicella leading the 'modernist' charge.


Modernist with a cause.

Allegrini La Grola 2008 $57ea I really enjoyed this wine. It is a blend of the traditional Valpol variety Corvina with a bit of Syrah(Shiraz). It had all the vibrant and rich, blue/black fruits, dense but fleshy fruit weight and the floral, leather and earth notes you'd expect. But it had lovely restraint and structure and a little bit more tannin and acid than I would expect from Valpol, which I would attribute to the Syrah. Beautiful balance and really a joy to drink. Will age very well.
Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre 2008 $52ea This is a blend of the three traditional varieties plus some Sangiovese. This wine uses the 'ripasso' technique (refermenting a wine on the skins of Amarone wines. More info) which adds more alcohol, weight, fuller tannins, and makes the wine more overt. It certainly had a lot of impact but still some nice finesse, and a lot of savoury characters.



Dolcetto, the little sweet one... with massive tannic fangs!

Conterno Fantino Dolcetto d'Alba 2008 $41ea This guy has made an appearance before in our Wines to drink now March. The wine has a really expressive nose; dark, jubey red berries, smokey, violets & lavender, plums, meaty, raw oak.
Balanced, crunchy acidity, gritty tannins, great mid palate flesh, blue berries and chocolate, quite dry and savoury despite what the nose would suggest. A great wine for slow cooked meats in particular.

Ugly-antico... What?
Who here knows knows a lot about grape variety Aglianico? Not me that is for sure. My favourite Italian wine reference book "The New Italy" tells me that it was introducted by the Greeks into Campania and it spread to Basilicata and Puglia. It makes full bodied, well structured and generous wines that age gracefully. It highlights Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Vulture DOC as two examples to watch out for.
Being from the Southern regions of Italy I was not expecting elegance and finesse like Barolo or Barbaresco, or the lightness of fruit but density and savoury core of Chianti. But my favourite tasting reference - my palate - tells me it is a substantially good variety. Very reminiscient of good quality Australian warm climate Shiraz in terms of weight, balance and structure. But with the more typical Italian savouriness, texture and refreshing acidity.
Having bought some for a customer I tried some myself, here is what I thought.


The family that revolutionised Irpinia winemaking.

Mastroberandino Taurasi Radici DOCG 2006 $90ea Antino Mastroberandino revolutionised winemaking in the 70s in the regions of Irpinia and surrounds. Today, the wines from this Estate are still amazing. This wine offers an array of red berries fruit, dry, baked earth and a clay like density. There is plenty of volume in the mouth and it is well balanced by the oak tannins and fine acidity.
Despite it's weight, this wine was quite refreshing and very easy to drink.

Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Rosso DOC Serpico 2007 $130ea The New Italy tells me this is one of the best producers in Italy. So it is not a surprise that, for my palate, this was probably the most impressive of the Aglianico wines.


Feudi di... One of the best producers in Italy, and hardest to photograph.

Quite dense nose, red and dark berries, pepper and savoury/spicy/gamey notes, a clay or terracotta like note in there and even a slightly floral lift.
The palate had great depth, plenty of intensity, great persistence of flavour and almost perfect balance. Certainly on the young side but it is very drinkable. I suspect it will get better with time though.

Feudi di San Gregorio Aglianico di Taurasi DOCG Piano di Montevergine 2002 $120ea It is great to be able to taste a slighlty older example of Aglianico. This is from a single vineyard Piano di Montevergine and is released as a Riserva.
The extra aging in oak and time in bottle made this wine a lot softer and more round, but the structure was still there. As was the lovely depth and intensity of flavour. The extra dimension of developed, leather and undergrowth characters made this all the more enjoyable.
I do have a slight question mark over whether the cork was doing it's job as well as it could. I will consult with the customer who bought some to see what his experience was.


Basilisco, easy to say, easy to take pics of.

Azienda Agricola Basilisco Aglianico del Vulture DOC Basilisco 2006 $70ea This was the only Aglianico not from Taurasi that I tasted. I found it to be the most straight forward, round and soft of the four Aglianicos, but it was also the cheapest. It showed lovely dark fruits and plums, a hint of chocolate and plenty of body. It was incredibly enjoyable and was awarded Tri Bichieri (Three Glasses) in the Gamberro Rosso - a much respected Italian wine guide (to put it simply).

WINE OF THE WEEK

WINE OF THE WEEK:

Three Wishes Chardonnay 2008 - From the beautiful Batman Peninsula in Tasmania's Tamar Valley. Three Wishes is a small, family run vineyard that makes some lovely wines.

This is one of my favourite producers in the whole world and Pete the owner very generously sponsored TWD Sentinels in last years Wine Rules charity event.



This label makes me think of bed time. Is it just me?

This Chard offers Oystershell, peaches, creamy mouthfeel and satisfying drinking. $29ea - cheaper as part of a dozen.

Order some today: philip@thewinedepository.com.au

See the other lovely wines we have on hand if you are keen to make up a mixed dozen.

Return To The Yarra Valley

Last week a friend from paintball, Rob, decided to take me wine touring as an early birthday present. Well, that's what he claims, but it was school holidays.... Maybe he just wanted to leave the house? Either way, it was good fun.

He chose two wineries, I chose two and away we went.

Redbox - As it turns out they aren't officially open on Wednesdays, but they were quite welcoming and despite the wines being open since the weekend they look remarkably good. I really liked the Riesling and Chardonnay. I have a feeling you may seem them recommended in the near future.

Panton Hill - Rob was really keen to try these guys out. When we went into the tasting room, no one was around. We couldn't find anyone at the winery. We even tried calling the telephone to no response. We have to go back at another time. Maybe try calling in advance.

Tarrawarra - I've been to Tarrawarra a few times in the past and it seems to get better each time. We were shown wines by Richard, who was great. He opened a few extra goodies because we showed some interest and ultimately there were some absolute winners there. The Pinots and Chards have always impressed (the Estate Pinot is a stunner). But the single vineyard Merlot and single vineyard Shiraz are sensational; hence their inclusion in the Cellar Dozen and Special Bottle Club lists respectively if you wanted to try them for yourself.

Dominique Portet - An old favourite of mine. Making possibly the best Rose in Australia and some really excellent Sauvignon Blanc. The Estate SB was so impressive it has also made it for sale into the Cellar Dozen this month. I have never tried an Australian SB so concentrated and full of loveliness (although Sorrenberg SSB has come mighty close as do some Leeuwin Art Series SB). We got to taste a cellar release of the 2005 Yarra Shiraz - direct from the cellar that morning in fact;  it was so lovely and savoury, but still had plenty of youthful exuberance. I thought it was a pleasant way to finish the tasting, until the Vendanges Tardives Sauvignon Blanc was brought out; this is what sweet wine is all about. Delicious and compelling drinking. Thankfully Rob was driver for the day.

A great day in all and I tried some wines that left me seriously impressed.

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Glassware, when, what

A brief discussion (I could go on a lot longer!) about glassware and how it makes a difference to your wine tasting/drinking experience. Originally featured in TWD Magazine January and February Issues.

Does glassware make a difference? The answer is yes, no and maybe. The hardest part about glassware is a lot of it comes down to personal preference, although it is quite a fascinating topic once you delve into it. A lot of factors effect how a glass can change the way you perceive a wine; the size and shape of the bowl, the size of the aperture, the lip - is it a cut or rolled rim and how it is shaped to deliver the wine onto your palate. And not to be overlooked is aesthetics. If it looks good before you've taken a sip, you will probably receive the wine more favourably. Thankfully there is no right or wrong on this topic as stated before, a lot of it comes down to your preference.


Riesling Style Glass

To continue our study on glassware, this month we will focus on shapes and styles. First up, everyone really needs the classic Riesling/Sangiovese shape as modelled above (Riedel Vinum Riesling Grand Cru glass). It is a great shape for most varieties and most occasions. It is especially good for aromatic whites - Riesling, Pinot Gris and lighter reds - Sangiovese and Gamay. If you were going to buy one glass, this is the one.



Burgundy Style Glass

Aromatic reds such as Pinot Noir, Grenache or Nebbiolo and fuller whites like big Chardonnay or Viognier benefit from large bowled glasses that are akin to brandy balloons to allow the aromatics to shine. I'd recommend a shape like the Burgundy glass above.



Bordeaux Style Glass

For more structured reds - Cabernet, or Shiraz, taller glasses with a smaller opening do the trick, putting the focus on the structure. They tend to deliver the wine is such a way to focus the structure on the palate. The Bordeaux style glass above is the go.

For Champagne or sparkling wine, flutes are great for traditional styles. But when I am drinking Grower Champagne or sparkling with a really interesting base wine, it has to be in a proper wine glass like the Riesling style. Is that wrong? No, I feel it allows the bubbles to die off and the more interesting characters in the wine to flourish. But ultimately it comes down to my preference. I would recommend you give it a go: The worst that could happen is you drink some Grower Champagne!

Not recommended is drinking from the following wine 'glass'...

Not crystal clear? Let me know what you think

Dinner At Matteo's 02/04/12

A memorable night for two reasons - some truly amazing wines, and the fact that two people pulled out last minute so there was a lot more wine than we needed. The plus side was there was no real disappointments, the downside was it was hard to decide what not to drink.

We started of course with Champagne and then did a horizontal of German Rieslings from 2007, five Hermitage, an option wine and Port.

Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve NV BCS is always a lovely drink, zesty, mid-weight and with a spicy oystershell note. Clean enough to make you down the first glass before you know what has happened.

Three excellent Riesling producers

Donnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken Nahe 2007 White peach, floral, candied lime, chalky, dense nose and very tropical. The palate is silky, showing mango flesh, tropical fruits, spice and quite zingy acid. Long finishing and unbelieveably enjoyable.

Dr Burklin Wolf Wachenheimer Altenberg Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2007 I would venture that the cork or storage had let this wine down just a little. It was dirty, kerosene, spice and a sulphur like note. It was developed beyond the other two whites.
The palate was full and powerful, chalky and quite balanced but a hint simple. I've had quite a few of these producers wines and this is not the norm. Shame.

Joh Jos Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Mosel 2007 Obviously a different beast because it is quite sweet compared to the two dry wines. It definitely showed too. Floral, vibrant, peaches, grapes and pepper. The vibrancy follows through into the mouth along with the floral notes, citrus and flint. The mouthfeel is lush and silky, it is incredibly long lasting and really well balanced - it does not finish sweet.
This is just a baby and certainly showed the most potential to improve.

These were the Fantastic five Hermitage. (Please excuse the dodgy stitch).

Guigal Hermitage 1999 Guigal always offer good drinking and this wine really set the tone for the bracket. Smoke, iodine, limestone, green olives, toast, spice, pepper, meaty, oak.
Sweet red fruits reminiscent of wine gums, olives, liquorice, spices, hint burnt, hint toffee, very long, vibrant, generous.

Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage 1999 Darker and more backwards than Guigal, brooding, oxidised dark berries, pepper, hint of brett? and herbal notes.
The palate was floral, blue and black fruited, silky and lush, tangy acid, meaty, chocolate with nice fine elegant tannins, just a hint of portiness. Very, very long.

Delas Feres Hermitage 1997 Grassy almost gruyere like, herbal, red fruits, floral, almost Burgundian and a hint meaty.
Palate is dry, astringent with a floral and tropical fruit sort of finish. Savoury minerals, smoke, spice, tea leaf, mouth filling and great length.

Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage 1997 Again, this wine was oxidised or poorly stored. It showed coffee, choco and a strong sherry/port/madeira character. It showed impeccable pedigree though.
Gritty tannins, dry and bitter and a hint rubbery. There was some silk to balance it out and porty and clove notes. I'm positive there are better bottles out there and I suspect they will be brilliant.

JL Chave Hermitage 1997 Smoke, spice, dense, raw oak - sappy, stoney, soot, iodine, brown spice, liquorice. The nose on this wine was amazing. It was a clear step up in quality (which is saying something!).
The palate was savoury, silky, elegant, fresh, fine characters of smoke, chocolate, oak, dry spice, dry earth, tea and a hint tropical/pineapple.
This wine was really, really good.

Given to us blind, it is one of the few mystery wines I've picked 100% correctly - it is harder than it sounds.

Option Wine
Chapoutier Cote Rotie 1997 The worst question in wine options? Burgundy, Bordeaux, or Rhone. You think they would be so easy. But with age, there is a lot of crossover between characters. Thankfully this wine smelt similar enough for me to place it in the Rhone but the tannins were sufficiently different for me to put it out of Hermitage. Stunning wine.
Smokey, sausages, gruyere, red fruis, tea leaf.
Full palate with a spine of tannins, chocolate, smokey and meaty, peaty with a hint of cheese. Quite savoury.

Some of the best VPs I've had were Single Quinta rather than the 'big show'.

Cockburns Quinta Dos Canais Vintage Port 2008 Young port is always a mouthful and can be hard to see the quality. The wine was dense, elegant and balanced with a hint of orange rind and a strong impression that it wants to be left alone for another 10-15 years.