Italian Varieties in Australia Tasting @ Mezzo Restaurant 28/07/12



The place to be on this cold afternoon.

Having done quite a focus on Italian wines over the last few months, I thought it was time to bring it closer to home and show some Australian interpretations of Italian varieties. Teaming up with Silvio at Mezzo Restaurant we selected seven wines from interesting Australian producers making excellent examples of Italian varietals. The team at Mezzo put on a spectacular spread of food and so all we needed is some willing participants! On a cold and rainy Melbourne afternoon we were warm inside Mezzo munching on amazing wild boar ragu, mussells, arancini and salmon tartare and sipping on some Australian wine gems.
You can see the notes I made for the tasting and if you are keen the order form is here.

The challenge for those who attended.

Three whites and four reds was the assignment. We started off with a new wine from the Chalmers Heathcote Vineyard Montevecchio Bianco 2011. A field blend of Vermentino, Fiano and Moscato Giallo this wine was crisp, clean and dry with nice amount of yellow fruits, floral notes, grapiness and citrus. Perfect for uncomplicated but satisfying drinking. Next up was Mac Forbes Arneis 2010. From the Yarra Valley, this Arneis showed all the hallmarks of great examples of the style; lovely aromatics, textural mouthfeel and clean finishing. It was very hard to have just one glass of this wine (luckily I got to take home the 'dregs'). The final white was the Freeman Fortuna Pinot Gris Plus 2010 a wine that manages to straddle the rich and textural side of Gris while avoiding oily/cloying characters. Melons, grapes, fleshy stone fruits and a nice hint of spice. The addition of small amounts of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Aleatico seem to be a masterstroke!


Me (Phil) setting up. So much romantic screwcap crackle!

While the whites were well received the red bracket was definitely the favourite of those who attended. We tasted Montevecchio Rosso 2011, also from Chalmers' Heathcote vineyard this was a field blend, containing Shiraz (yes there is some Shiraz in Italy), Lagrein, Nero d'Avola and Sagrantino. It was spicy, red fruited, mid weight and a hint savoury. Nice easy drinking and really showed well for the price. Staying  in Heathcote we tasted Greenstone Rosso di Colbo Sangiovese 2011. The Greenstone story is fascinating to hear but the wines are just delicious! This is their entry level Sangio and it had all of the cherry, earthy and hint of meat and oak characters with the clean and dry elements celebrated in Chianti. This is an excellent wine! Building up in weight we went to Freeman Secco 2008, made in the style of Valpolicella and Amarone this uses Rondinella and Corvina grapes that are run through a prune dehydrator to concentrate the flavours (Amarone use an air drying process to achieve a similar result). There was plenty of red and blue fruits, a full weight in the mouth but a nice freshness and great balance with the acid and tannin elements and a dry finish. Finally we had a variety that I think has a lot of potential for Australia Beach Road Aglianico 2010. Beach Rd make a great range of Italian varieties from Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale, This is one of their best (in my opinion). I've recently been getting excited by Aglianico and this offers a lot of their big red and black fruit, leather notes, spice and a herbal edge. Nice palate length and very drinkable.

This is one of the most interesting tasting I've hosted as all these wines were so different from what we normally taste in Australia. There was almost a dead heat between the last three reds for most popular wine with Mac Forbes Arneis following close behind. Thanks to those that came out and hopefully we can top this tasting next month.

Dinner at Sosta Cucina 11/05/12

After a few false starts Dave's group finally managed to convene to taste some awesome wines at one of the best restaurants I've eaten at in Melbourne Sosta Cucina.

A late withdrawal meant that we had to sacrifice a bottle of Cignale from Tuscany (one of my favourite Italian wines). But just as well, because an unannounced no show meant we were flush with wine anyway. It wasn't all that bad; never before has a waiter said to me "Would you like a top up of the Rousseau?... OK, which vintage?"

The menu was fantastic but crab and rabbit are almost always going to get my vote - and it was well chosen on my part too! Beautiful food and great service on the night.

Larmandier Bernier Brut Tradition NV - I never get sick of this wine. It was up to its beautiful standard! If you havent tasted it email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au because it is a must for any lover of wine.

Giaconda Chardonnay 2010 - A lot of people talk about Grange being Australia's greatest wine, I don't have much experience with Grange, but I would vote for this wine. In fact the 94 is the best Australian wine I've ever drunk.
The 2010 is already so complex, layered and lovely. Toasty, flint, pure, mineral - white stones, peach and apricot, zesty, white chocolate/creamy.
The palate is creamy, intense but balanced, great texture and seamless. It is a joy to drink and altogether too drinkable.

Phi Pinot Noir 2010 Coming off the back of some great accolades I was keen to try this wine. It needed a bit of time to open up. Initially it was dirty, ash, tart/herbal with a hint of VA. With time it developed some spicy oaky notes with cherry, red and blue fruits and plums.
Quite a tart palate with red fruits, clean finish and a tight core of fruit supported by fine tannins.

Bindi Composition Pinot Noir 2010 Bindi is an awesome producer, this is their entry level wine and I think it showed a bit that way on the night. Full, mint, round and meaty, dense eucalypt and smoke. It was dark fruited and round on the palate but just a hint simple.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er 2009 Such a priviledge to taste this wine. 2009 was such an amazing vintage in Burgundy. I was surprised there was a bottle left for us to drink. Initially it was quite ripe, lifted tropical and sweet red fruits. With air more savoury spice, rocket, pepper and clay notes came through.
It had great silk on the palate, with great length. Showed its extreme youth by being a hint bitter, disjointed and oaky. Very enjoyable none-the-less.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er 2008 On the night I felt compelled to write "Awesome Wine" with an arrow pointing to this wine. It was pretty good. Spice, rocket, ripe herbs, blood orange. Good silk, hint tart, smokey, long, hint of chocolate, great mouthfeel, very long and beautiful drinking.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er 2006 Savoury, truffles, tart red fruits and rose petal/floral cologne like notes and dark stone minerality.
Silky, structured, clean and balanced. Probably a bit in between youth and maturity. Lovely drinking though.

Mount Mary Quintets 2006 Pretty, delicate, currants, cherries, earth and a hint of undergrowth. The palate was dense but fine and balanced. The tannins were smooth and refined. This wine is just a baby.

Mastroberandino Radici Taurasi DOCG 2006 Aglianico could well be the next big thing in Australia - as I have said recently . I think it needs a nickname before it is properly accepted though.
I've had this wine a few times in the recent past and I love it more each time. The toasty, clay, burnt earth, meat and game notes really shone through with a beautiful rabbit dish. You just have to give it a go.

Kopke Reserve Tawny Port A well regarded but rarely seen producer. This was well put together, more savoury styled tawny. Mid-bodied and quite refreshing.

The night ended with the 3,2,1 voting (each person gives three votes to their favourite wine of the night, two to the next and one to the their third best). Giaconda Chard came first with 13 votes (and an enthusiastic "my Mother would love this"), Rousseau Cazetiers 08 second place with 10 votes and Cazetiers 09 third on 7 votes.

Italian Wines

There has been some seriously good wine consumed at the Red House (TWD HQ) and at events. At home we've had some awesome Italian wines. All red and a lot of them have been because customers have tipped me off.

If you want more information or would like to order any of them (or all of them) you can email me philip@thewinedepository.com.au or call 0418 23 04 82.

I love the wines from Veneto, and in particular from Valpolicella (including Amarone) as seen here, here and here. I think they have a good cross over point from new world wine drinkers who want to put their toe in the water in Italy. They are also extremely yummy, which makes them great for wine drinkers in general.
Allegrini is one of the best Estates in Valpolicella leading the 'modernist' charge.


Modernist with a cause.

Allegrini La Grola 2008 $57ea I really enjoyed this wine. It is a blend of the traditional Valpol variety Corvina with a bit of Syrah(Shiraz). It had all the vibrant and rich, blue/black fruits, dense but fleshy fruit weight and the floral, leather and earth notes you'd expect. But it had lovely restraint and structure and a little bit more tannin and acid than I would expect from Valpol, which I would attribute to the Syrah. Beautiful balance and really a joy to drink. Will age very well.
Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre 2008 $52ea This is a blend of the three traditional varieties plus some Sangiovese. This wine uses the 'ripasso' technique (refermenting a wine on the skins of Amarone wines. More info) which adds more alcohol, weight, fuller tannins, and makes the wine more overt. It certainly had a lot of impact but still some nice finesse, and a lot of savoury characters.



Dolcetto, the little sweet one... with massive tannic fangs!

Conterno Fantino Dolcetto d'Alba 2008 $41ea This guy has made an appearance before in our Wines to drink now March. The wine has a really expressive nose; dark, jubey red berries, smokey, violets & lavender, plums, meaty, raw oak.
Balanced, crunchy acidity, gritty tannins, great mid palate flesh, blue berries and chocolate, quite dry and savoury despite what the nose would suggest. A great wine for slow cooked meats in particular.

Ugly-antico... What?
Who here knows knows a lot about grape variety Aglianico? Not me that is for sure. My favourite Italian wine reference book "The New Italy" tells me that it was introducted by the Greeks into Campania and it spread to Basilicata and Puglia. It makes full bodied, well structured and generous wines that age gracefully. It highlights Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Vulture DOC as two examples to watch out for.
Being from the Southern regions of Italy I was not expecting elegance and finesse like Barolo or Barbaresco, or the lightness of fruit but density and savoury core of Chianti. But my favourite tasting reference - my palate - tells me it is a substantially good variety. Very reminiscient of good quality Australian warm climate Shiraz in terms of weight, balance and structure. But with the more typical Italian savouriness, texture and refreshing acidity.
Having bought some for a customer I tried some myself, here is what I thought.


The family that revolutionised Irpinia winemaking.

Mastroberandino Taurasi Radici DOCG 2006 $90ea Antino Mastroberandino revolutionised winemaking in the 70s in the regions of Irpinia and surrounds. Today, the wines from this Estate are still amazing. This wine offers an array of red berries fruit, dry, baked earth and a clay like density. There is plenty of volume in the mouth and it is well balanced by the oak tannins and fine acidity.
Despite it's weight, this wine was quite refreshing and very easy to drink.

Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Rosso DOC Serpico 2007 $130ea The New Italy tells me this is one of the best producers in Italy. So it is not a surprise that, for my palate, this was probably the most impressive of the Aglianico wines.


Feudi di... One of the best producers in Italy, and hardest to photograph.

Quite dense nose, red and dark berries, pepper and savoury/spicy/gamey notes, a clay or terracotta like note in there and even a slightly floral lift.
The palate had great depth, plenty of intensity, great persistence of flavour and almost perfect balance. Certainly on the young side but it is very drinkable. I suspect it will get better with time though.

Feudi di San Gregorio Aglianico di Taurasi DOCG Piano di Montevergine 2002 $120ea It is great to be able to taste a slighlty older example of Aglianico. This is from a single vineyard Piano di Montevergine and is released as a Riserva.
The extra aging in oak and time in bottle made this wine a lot softer and more round, but the structure was still there. As was the lovely depth and intensity of flavour. The extra dimension of developed, leather and undergrowth characters made this all the more enjoyable.
I do have a slight question mark over whether the cork was doing it's job as well as it could. I will consult with the customer who bought some to see what his experience was.


Basilisco, easy to say, easy to take pics of.

Azienda Agricola Basilisco Aglianico del Vulture DOC Basilisco 2006 $70ea This was the only Aglianico not from Taurasi that I tasted. I found it to be the most straight forward, round and soft of the four Aglianicos, but it was also the cheapest. It showed lovely dark fruits and plums, a hint of chocolate and plenty of body. It was incredibly enjoyable and was awarded Tri Bichieri (Three Glasses) in the Gamberro Rosso - a much respected Italian wine guide (to put it simply).